With a Phd. In History, Chad Ludington Speaks The History Of Wine. Really Quite Fascinating.

One of the more intriguing elements of wine is that it can appeal to a wide range of people. In wide range, I mean it has appeal on so many different levels; a novice can just enjoy their favorite wines from the supermarket and delve into the history...
One of the more intriguing elements of wine is that it can appeal to a wide range of people. In wide range, I mean it has appeal on so many different levels; a novice can just enjoy their favorite wines from the supermarket and delve into the history when inclined; a collector can peel each wine back and learn of its origin and take it a step deeper, the wine enthusiast that wants to put their toe in the water of wine knowledge can enroll in one the wine certification organizations and earn a certification and then there's a couple of levels of wine knowledge until you basically stop at Charles Ludington. With two bachelor degrees, one masters and a Phd. One might say he has reached a level few, if any, other academians have reached.
And because of his time in front of students in a class room, Charles can articulate this knowledge in an understandable and intriguing way.
If you think the world of wine is all swirling glasses and sniffing bouquets, wait until you’ve heard Charles Ludington—Chad, to his friends—uncork a few bottles of historical truth. Armed with not just one, but four degrees in history (and a résumé that includes playing basketball in Paris and working on the New York wine retail frontlines), Chad isn’t your typical wine academic; he’s something of a one-man bridge between eras, cultures, and even social classes. Dive into this episode, and you’ll learn how wine is far more than a drink—it is a lens onto everything from class warfare to international politics, from covert Irish merchants shaping Bordeaux’s legacy to NBA stars dueling over Grand Crus in LA bistros. Chad traces the surprising paths that led Bordeaux’s cellars to be filled by Irish hands and explores why today’s elite collectors find meaning in a dusty bottle—sometimes as a symbol of status, sometimes a sensory revelation, but always as a marker of time and place. You’ll unpeel the layered tales of how wine moved from scandalous blends—once the height of fashion—to the hyper-strict appellations, and discover the very modern decline in wine’s appeal among young people, who instead find excitement in natural wines or, oddly enough, craft beer and cocktails. Along the way, you’ll reconsider the meaning of terroir, discovering just how blurred the boundaries of authenticity, tradition, and marketing really are. By the end, not only will you be able to spot the politics in your glass and the shifting gender codes of rosé, you’ll also taste the romantic—and sometimes subversive—human stories that echo through every sip. This episode braids together centuries of intrigue, innovation, and, yes, a fair bit of competitive one-upmanship—pulling back the curtain on how wine tells the story of us all.
#WineHistory #WineCulture #Bordeaux #NBAWine #WinePolitics #Terroir #WineEducation #WinePodcast
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I think we are in a more serious wine moment. But as you know, wine
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consumption among the new generation of young people in
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America as well as in France is declining. 21 to 35
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crowd is not drinking as much wine as my crowd did and your crowd did.
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Why that is, it's not quite clear. Wine seems a little staid
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to them. Of course, natural wines, which kind of fall into that category of young
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creatives, are also doing fairly well in that crowd. But that's
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such a small percentage of overall wine production. Sit back and
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grab a glass. It's Wine Talks with Paul
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K. Welcome to Wine Talks with Paul
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Kay. And we are in studio today in beautiful Southern California, about to have a
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conversation with Charles Luddings. It out in New York. Introductions in just a moment.
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Hey, have a listen to a show that's coming out with Florence
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Cathiard, and she owns the Chateau Smith aux Lafitte in the
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Pas Sac Leon district of Grave, as well
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as one of Lou, one of the historical properties in the Napa
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Valley under the Cathiard vineyard designation, once owned
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by Louis Martini. It's an incredible conversation. What an elegant,
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driven, athletic woman at that. But now, while we're here
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to have a conversation with Charles Ludington. You know, Charles, I keep putting down
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Chad. What do you go by? Charles? Please call me Chad. Since we're,
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we're not, we're not good friends here, Paul. So we're all good friends now. Chad
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has a BA in history, a master's in history, a master's of philosophy
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in history, and a PhD in history. And you
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know that. All from Ivy League
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schools. But your passion, you know, you, it's. I was
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reading your, your bio a little bit. It was talking about how you
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switched into the history of wine, which is really a fascinating subject because there aren't
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too many of you around that actually have this deep understanding of the
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value of the history of wine. How did that happen?
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Oh, that's a great question, Paul. I was
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after, after college, I played basketball for a year in
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France. And for better or for worse, I was in Paris and I fell in
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love with Paris and more so than, than, than
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basketball. So it was. And part of that
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was the wine, the food,
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and just the. Yeah. The whole
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Parisian life. And so
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I, I was hooked at that point. And
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then when I was treated to a team in Spain, I said, you know, I
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really want to stay here in France. And I found a way of doing that.
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And so I was. Went on to write a biography
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of this Franco Irish family who ended up in
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America, but that allowed me to stay doing research in Paris. And
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then eventually I went off to grad school and I was looking for
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a way to combine my interest in Irish history
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and French history. And I was working at a wine store in New
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York to kind of pay for my habit, as it were.
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Make the wine cheaper for a grad student by working on Saturdays at
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Aster. Sorry, not Astor. I was just thinking. Just
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thinking about after the. About Union Square wines and spirits, which
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is no longer where it used to be in any event. And then I
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was encouraged by one of my professors, a guy named Simon Shama, who was
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a cultural historian, to try to combine my interest in
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Irish and British history and wine. And next thing you
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know, I was off to the races with a. With a PhD on
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the politics of wine in Britain in the period 1649
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to 1860, when wine was a very politicized
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commodity because it was a highly taxed
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commodity and a source of revenue for the government, very important source.
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And it had all sorts of cultural and social and
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political meanings, what wine you consumed. And so I just found wine with this
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amazing lens onto British history.
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And you've expanded that into. Back into Irish history and French
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history. And I've just published a book on the Irish and Bordeaux,
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and I'm working on another version of that. And
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now I'm also. I'm going to back you all the way up to playing basketball
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in Paris. Sure, sure. Because that's fascinating stuff. And we're going to peel
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back some of that. We're not going to have enough time to do all the
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things that I want to talk about. We'll have to do this again. But we're
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going to Paris in a week. I'll go there as often as I can,
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stay as long as I can. If I can just get a layover for one
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night, I'll go to Paris and I'll go into town and I'll just hang out.
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I am with you on this. I'm in love with the city, and I can't
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wait to get there, and I can't wait to come back when I'm gone. And
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in fact, yesterday morning I had this aberration. I said, you know, we're supposed to
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stop in Paris on the way home from Sicily. So I think. Think we're just
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going to extend that. And I called American Express and got the flight moved a
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few days so that we could spend a few nights on the way out, you
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know, just. Just hanging. And so I get that, you know, it's Interesting about the.
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You played basketball. I know you played in college and you,
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you went to France. Isn't it interesting now? Because
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there's a huge interest in wine in the
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NBA. Huge. To the extent that they have wineries,
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not just brands, you know, there's. As you and I know, the celebrity endorsed brand
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is different than sort of the person that's involved with it. Like Dwyane
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Wade has a winery and I, I just find it
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culturally interesting that this has become such an important part. In fact,
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there's a restaurant here in LA that the Lakers call after a
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game. We're on our way over. Don't close the kitchen. Pull out a couple
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of Burgundies and some Grand Cruise and let's. We're coming to
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town. Yeah, it's amazing. Wine has,
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has really entered the NBA in, in, in a major way, as you just
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said. You know, I, I won. Of French
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players in the NBA has had on that. That's certainly
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possible. Tony Parker, who had an American dad who had
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gone over to play basketball in France just as I did, he married
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a French woman. Obviously, Tony Parker becomes this
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fantastic player, but he was very interested in, you know, having
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grown up in France, he was very interested in wine. And in fact he
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has a chateau down in a domain down in, in Provence now which
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mostly makes rose, which of course was having a moment, but I think he's, he's
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a pretty serious wine guy, him myself. And you
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know, there have been other Boris Diaw and other
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French players back, you know, 10 years ago, 15 years ago, and of
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course there are far more now. And as we saw in last
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summer's Olympics back in Paris with, you know,
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Wimby and quite a few others, the. France is
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perhaps the second best basketball country in the world at this, you
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know, currently. And all those players bring their
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Frenchness to the league. But you know, I don't know how much that had an
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impact on people like JJ Redick or LeBron James or
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Dwyane Wade and others who have professed this incredible interest
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in wine and have, you know, have serious collections, some
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of them. And I think it's become a thing among them to
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both to sort of to share wine with each other, but also to kind
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of there's one upmanship, there's competitive, you know, oh, I opened a, you
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know, Lafitte 82
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last night. What did you guys have? Yeah, it goes around and around
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and so it's, you know, it's. Yeah, it's an amazing, it's an amazing
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aspect of contemporary wine culture. And basketball
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culture. That's funny story, because I think I told you briefly, but we were at
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Cheval Blanc, we're having lunch in the vineyard with Monsieur Clay,
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and this big black dude comes down, and he's introduced himself
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as Mike Pietras. And we started talking.
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And then before I knew it, after I got home, I was on a Zoom
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call with him and Boris, talking about the lifestyle of Bordeaux and
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wine. But the way that happened was very bizarre.
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One of my guests on this trip was up on the roof of Cheval Blanc,
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and Mike was up there. They started talking, and my
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guest had been the cameraman at a Clippers game, and Mike had
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taken him out as he was shooting a basket and had, you
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know, lay up and fell on him. And he goes, you know, he
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goes, Mr. Patriots, do you remember me? You knocked me. You knocked me
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over. And he goes, I do remember that. And then
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he says, you got to come down and say hi to our group. And so
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he came down and I. And that's what started this sort of interest. And then
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I had a conversation with Dwayne Wade's number two guy, George Walker, up. Up in
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Napa. You think that's. And this is going to
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lead into this conversation about the lifestyle, wine, the history of wine, you know,
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developing this lifestyle. That, that. That I don't think
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is an opulent. It's not these. They're not chasing
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this opulent lifestyle that shows you've
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arrived in life. It's just. It's just the idea of
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wine and its complexities and its nuances and
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what it does at the dinner table. Is that. Would that be
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accurate? Yeah, you know,
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that's a fantastic question, because I suppose, you know,
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the. The academic in me and say you probably can't separate either
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one from the other, but. But, you know, to me, there are
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these inherent joys, and obviously there are to you, too, and to many of your
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listeners, just, you know, in wine. And once you discover
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those, you know, especially when you come
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from a background where maybe that just wasn't at all a part of what you
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grew up with, and you discover that and you think, oh, my Lord, you know,
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this. This wine is. Could be so complex
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and. And when you, you know, combine it with food
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and if you love both those things, athletes certainly love eating
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and, you know, some physical pleasures, after all the
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stress they're putting their body under, it makes perfect sense that people are just saying,
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look, this is great. I didn't know about this necessarily, growing
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up. Just like most basketball players, most Americans don't grow
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up in sort of fine wine families. Certainly
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my parents were just giving an example,
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were beer and
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Matuse and.
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Lancers. You know, my dad had a martini, his beer
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Matuse and, you know, occasional martini, and then
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spent a year in Lyon. He was a
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professor also and discovered
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Beaujolais because he played on a. He played on the local basketball team.
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And a lot of the games were around the city of Lyon,
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and some of them were up in the Beaujolais region. And, you know,
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after the games, you know, sometimes on outdoor mud courts. I'm not making this
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up, you know, where the ball wouldn't actually bounce, would
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you know, that there would be this big feast with
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the village that maybe you just defeated in hoops,
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and you'd sit down to the wine that came from the
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fields that surround the court. That's amazing.
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So there's, you know, so there's that discovery of wine. That's an amazing thing. Now,
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to the other point, you know, I think it's very hard to separate
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the. The historical aspect of wine too. Especially really
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fine wines have often meant
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to the consumers themselves. You know, I
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have, I've arrived. You know, I can afford this. And it's. So
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it's both a statement to oneself and of course, it's a way. It's, it's, it's.
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It's a display to. To others who know the language
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of wine that, you know, you've arrived. And you see this with, you know, going
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back to some of the things I've written on that about in the
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17th and 18th century in England, the
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merchants and the lawyers who have as much money as the
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aristocrats, in some cases more, they use wine
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and their appreciation of wine as
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a symbol to tell the aristocrats, we've arrived, we're
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here, we deserve to be here. And you see the same thing
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20 years ago, starting in the Chinese market,
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where wine, and particularly Bordeaux, more recently, Burgundy
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becomes a way of saying, you know, we. We. We've made money. You know, we're
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now a Shanghai millionaire, or we,
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and we know wine. And so wine becomes this way of telling oneself
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and also others that one is arrived. And so I, you know, I'm
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sure that's an. There's an aspect of that too,
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no doubt, among some players that, you know,
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we have, yeah, we've made it. We, We're. We've moved up a social class
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or we have just sort of, you know, we're. We're success in this world. It's
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because you mentioned earlier about the political,
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not fallout but the politics of wine in
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1649-1860 in Britain. And I thought
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to myself, it's not a whole lot different today. I mean,
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certainly the status. I had a conversation yesterday with the
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representative in China of lvmh, and she just corroborated what you just said, which
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is Bordeaux was the beginning of the Chinese awareness of wine.
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And now Burgundy's crept in there and they're starting. And I, as you and I
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know, all, you know, files, as Chuck Wagner said, not Chuck Wagner, but
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Paul Meyer said, you know, end up in Burgundy. But
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that's interesting that, that there's a. There
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was a political ramification to what you drank
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and how you were perceived by what you drank. And
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isn't that true today? I mean, really, you know, that's a.
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That's a good question. I don't think it's as politicized,
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certainly, in if we're speaking about the United States. I think
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it's more gendered, probably. Now, of course,
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gender these days is also a hot political topic
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when you look at the way people are. Men and women
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have voted in the last election and what seems to be sort of a
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male backlash. So certainly gendering of wine is also
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a form of the politics of wine in terms of
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what country you chose to drink from.
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There was a little bit of that moment in 2003 when the French
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didn't join us in our. I guess I'm going to go ahead. And I reminded
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people of this very event because of the today's tariff situation. I go, wait
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a minute. We politicized it. Yeah, yeah. You know, there's sort of
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a. What I guess I'll call in retrospect, the folly of the
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invasion. And the French didn't come along, go along. And so we had a, you
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know, our moment of pouring French wine down drains and changing French fries to
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freedom fries and all that. But I don't think I forgot
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now. There's sort of an. I don't think there's. At the moment, there's an anti
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French or anti Italian or anti Spanish wine bias
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or still a pro American wine bias. But
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that. That could change. You know, I do think the gendering of wine
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is pretty clear in the way that, you
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know, white wine for a very long time has been
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gendered female, and red wine, more male,
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is obviously having a moment. And back when I was working in the wine store
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in New York in the mid-90s, I couldn't sell rose
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de Provence to save my life. People would come
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in and we maybe offered one or two bottles. And I had had some
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wonderful experiences in the south of France where I just said, you know,
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on a hot day with, you know,
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grilled foods, you know, is a perfect one. A little
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more body than whites. It's not to be taken too seriously. And it's only, you
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know, six bucks a bottle. You know, it's. And
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New Yorkers at the time would not touch the stuff. It was either, you know,
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we didn't know is it neither fish nor foul, or they associate it with white
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Zinfandel. Look, I'm not a white Zinfandel drinker. And I was like, it's not white
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Zinfandel. And it's. You really gotta
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try it in the summertime in particular. And, you know, now obviously,
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you know, the section is often one of the largest
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in a hip wine store, and people are absurdly
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charging, you know, it's 35, 40 bucks
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for. For summer. Yeah. Domain Odd, though.
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I think I just bought some Etoile from Domain Auto.
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They got retails at 65. Yeah, yeah. I mean, you know, I
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mean, Domain art has always been up there for a
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while. But. But yeah, I think it's the. It's the Brangelina effect,
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too. And so. But. And rose is
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largely. I guess it's. It's. What do they call
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it? Hampton's Tea here in New York? I've
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never heard that. That's great. And I think it's
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gendered. Mostly pink, you know, is gendered. Mostly
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female. But. But, you know, I think it's also one of those. It's. It's
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not a white wine, it's not a red. So I think the men feel comfortable
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crossing over. It's, you know, it's. So, yeah, wine is gendered. It's
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therefore political. I don't. You know, we may get to a
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moment when wine becomes highly political in terms of the, you know, whether it's American
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wine or wine from the eu, if in fact the tariffs get slapped
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on, because then it becomes a class thing too, you know, who can afford it?
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And that adds a component to the politics of it that.
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That, you know, only the elites. I mean, I can go in most of my
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stores here in New York and Upper west side,
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you know, I would say I'm probably going to find cheaper French and Italian
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wines than I am American wines.
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But, you know, you add a 200 tariff on
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those wines, next thing you know, all European wines are going to be
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more expensive and American wines will become the. The default wine for the.
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For the middle classes. I Guess we'll call it, you know, the. As you
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probably realize, there's a. There's a big difference between the wine shelves
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here in Southern California than in New York. And New York is a wine shop
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at every corner and some of them very specific
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regions and styles. In California, the import
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selection is considerably less in the fact.
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My son in law, who's in Potsdam, who is a
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devotee, you know, comes down to New York City
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to, To stock his cellar because there's such a
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variety there and stuff. He took me to a store not
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too long ago. I think it was in the Hudson. The city of Hudson.
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Hudson's a city too, right? Not just the river. Well, there's Hudson on
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Hastings. Hastings on Hudson, sorry. And then
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there's a little tiny village. With a little tiny wine shop.
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And you know, I thought, look, I've been doing this for 35
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years. I think I saw two brands that I recognized, you
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know, on the shelf and There was probably 200 SKUs in this shop, maybe more.
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And so I thought, wow, this is an interesting difference. But you know, let
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me jump on a subject that I think is interesting that I want you to
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reflect on. Our mutual friend Dr. Friedman,
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who's, you know, lecturing on the servitude,
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medieval servitude, but his passion is the evolution of cuisine
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in America. And you know, it's a very interesting.
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I love the subject as well. I think it's one of your passions as it's
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evolved. Do you think that, that there's been that
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renaissance of wine in America
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that the food went through in the 80s and continues to sort of change, or
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we're not there yet, or it happened a long time ago, like in the 70s,
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during the judgment of Par. And that's. And then we're just settled in already.
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Yeah, that's a great question. You know,
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historians were looking for trends and, and
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that certainly, you know, follows that idea
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that when, when did this trend start? You know, I, I think there's a lot
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of evidence that in, in the 70s,
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partly because certain producers like Heights
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were making really quality wines in California.
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Mondavi stepping up their act. And
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you know, you get many other examples. Ridge comes on the scene
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sometimes not long after that, if I'm not mistaken. And so
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you have better American wines. And then of course you have, you
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know, 1976, you have the Judgment of Paris where, you know, Chateau
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Montelena and you know,
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Stagsley, you know, wins the prize. And
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actually we've won in both in Chardonnay and in
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Bordeaux. Belen too. So that was obviously a big
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moment. But then you don't really. The 80s, the sort
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of counter evidence there is that. Yeah. But guess What? In the
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1980s, America's number one selling one was Wards Infidel.
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So how much of an impact did it really have? Good
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point. I think sometime in the
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1990s. So there's maybe a general
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trend, but it wasn't really clear,
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maybe not a deep Trend until the 1990s when you start to
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get what I'll call broadly the foodie movement.
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That is people's greater interest in seasonal
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food and sort of rejection of packaged food and instant
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foods that had been so fashionable after World War II
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up through the 1970s and early through the 80s is sort of the transition
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year beginning in 90s. Certainly by that point among the,
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I guess I'll call it cultural elites, there's this movement away
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from all that previous era and the
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packaged foods and processed foods. And I think with that came
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a greater appreciation of wine as part of that broad foodie
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movement. Because of course wine in most cultures, as you
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know, ours may be the exception in some ways,
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but wine and food grew
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symbiotically. And so you're into wine,
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you're into food, you're into food, you're into wine. The food go to together. You
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don't just drink wine without the food, you know, you don't eat food without the
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wine. And so I think that kind of took off in American society
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as well. And I guess the question again is how far did that penetrate
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down. I've got some. I edited a book few years ago called
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Food Fights How History Matters to
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Contemporary Food Debates. And some. One of the
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authors, Margot Finn and I and I can largely concurred,
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made the case that this was largely that the foodie movement was
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largely class based
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and that farmers markets may have been an attempt
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to and may still be an attempt to help local economies
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and sort of disrupt the dominance of big food and
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all that. But fundamentally it's a way for people who
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have cultural capital, not necessarily a lot of financial capital, but
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cultural capital to play the game of
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elitism. And you know, wine's caught up in that movement
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too. So you'll find that too cynical a take
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doesn't necessarily mean it's wrong, but, but that implicates
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certainly people like me, you know, academic, growing up in a place like Chapel Hill,
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North Carolina, where, you know, the farmer's market is a big part of the local
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identity and it's a part of liberal politics. And so
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that said, I think we are in a more serious wine
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moment. But as you know, wine consumption among the new generation of young
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people in America as well as in France is declining.
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So, you know, with the 21 to 35 crowd is
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not drinking as much wine as my crowd
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did and your crowd did, which was, you know, we were increasing the amount.
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So how, you know, why that is, it's not quite
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clear. Wine seems a little staid to them. I think in some ways, you
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know, cocktails and craft beers are
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doing very well. Of course, natural wines, which kind of fall into that category of
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young creatives, are also doing fairly well in that crowd. But
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that's such a small percentage of overall wine production.
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So, you know, that's a long answer to your short question, but I think. I
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don't, I, I don't. I, I would love to peel that stuff back
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with you, but I wanted to, I wanted to dig back into your.
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The history of wine more than that. But there's certainly all that stuff. I
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just. Actually one of the most responses I've ever gotten on a comment, hey, you
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place a comment on LinkedIn or something, you know, usually it just stays
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there. And some people continue to comment. But the most
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replies I've ever gotten to one of my comments was one where I said, you
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know, it's a lot of lip service on the Internet right now, and there's a
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lot of reasons why they're not drinking. I think wine is generational. All generations
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come to it eventually, and there's lots of peaks and valleys along
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the way. And certainly you can't drink White Claw, you know, the rest of your
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life. So I think that's going to change. And not only that, that
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the marketplace, when the idea of, of a private
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labeling became as simple and pro. Profitable
402
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as it became, you know, 15, 20 years ago, you
403
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know, the marketplace was inundated with 50 cent a liter crap from
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Europe and packaged a thousand different ways. And that just
405
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put, pun intended, sour taste in people's mouth as well. I think
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that's my personal opinion. But I want to go back to. Because your, Your specialty
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is a history of wine, the politics of wine. And I, and I was
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reading your, Your, Your bio and you're talking about
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this, the Irish, the Irish movement in Bordeaux.
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And I started thinking, you know, it's so interesting to me, particularly
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Bordeaux. Burgundy is a little more protected.
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But didn't. Wasn't with Bordeaux. The rash shields
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are, what, from the Netherlands or from Germany? Yeah.
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And. And Napa was founded by immigrants.
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I mean, and so here's this indigenous product that
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is to reflect local everything, you know,
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terroir and the history.
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But so much of the popular regions of the world
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were founded by immigration, by people that came to this country, that brought the idea
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of wine, that brought the idea of the lifestyle of wine to those areas.
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And I find that fascinating. And here you are talking about the Irish
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00:25:53,450 --> 00:25:57,218
in Bordeaux, which you don't, you don't hear, but that's
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not the most common thing you hear about. No, it's certainly not the first thing
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that comes to mind when you think of Bordeaux wine. Ireland has
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spent a lot of time, certainly in the second half of the
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20th century promoting the notion that it's all Guinness and
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whiskey. Once a big wine
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consuming society, and it was
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also Irish merchants were very important in the
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creation of modern Bordeaux. Remarkably so, in fact, they played an
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integral role in, throughout the 18th
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century that, you know, it speaks to your point
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that so often it's because wine is
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00:26:36,438 --> 00:26:39,010
desired by people outside of the place it's produced.
435
00:26:40,310 --> 00:26:43,790
Savvy merchants and people, you know, who want to drink themselves but also see an
436
00:26:43,830 --> 00:26:47,450
opportunity, a market opportunity, go there, produce it and ship it off.
437
00:26:48,390 --> 00:26:51,982
So, yeah, the Irish did that in the 18th century, starting in the
438
00:26:52,006 --> 00:26:55,604
1690s. But they settle
439
00:26:55,652 --> 00:26:59,332
in Bordeaux, which was accommodating both to
440
00:26:59,436 --> 00:27:03,012
Irish Catholics because of course, France at that point had decided it was a
441
00:27:03,036 --> 00:27:06,852
uniquely Catholic kingdom. And Irish Catholics were in
442
00:27:06,876 --> 00:27:10,660
the 1690s being placed in second class status in their own
443
00:27:10,700 --> 00:27:14,516
society. So they go from an anti
444
00:27:14,548 --> 00:27:17,924
Catholic society to a very pro Catholic one. Meanwhile, Irish
445
00:27:17,972 --> 00:27:21,602
Protestants who are on top
446
00:27:21,786 --> 00:27:25,442
in Ireland go to France where you'd think they would be
447
00:27:25,626 --> 00:27:29,394
personae non grata because they are Protestant and Protestants had just been kicked out
448
00:27:29,402 --> 00:27:32,870
of France. But French tax collectors
449
00:27:33,370 --> 00:27:36,242
were too clever to kick out all their
450
00:27:36,266 --> 00:27:39,826
Huguenots on the grounds that we would reduce, you know, we'll
451
00:27:39,858 --> 00:27:43,634
reduce our tax base. So they. So that Protestant
452
00:27:43,682 --> 00:27:47,030
foreign merchants were actually found a small
453
00:27:47,330 --> 00:27:50,954
community of Protestants. They weren't, you know, as long as they paid their
454
00:27:50,962 --> 00:27:54,442
taxes, they were tolerated. But in the case of the Irish, what's fascinating is
455
00:27:54,546 --> 00:27:58,154
Protestant and Catholic, they all got along famously and went to the same, you
456
00:27:58,162 --> 00:28:01,338
know, cafe and
457
00:28:01,394 --> 00:28:05,178
hotel in Bordeaux. They had balls together, they went into
458
00:28:05,234 --> 00:28:08,350
business together, they hired each other's children and servants.
459
00:28:09,250 --> 00:28:12,602
Very rarely did they intermarry, but they were very much a
460
00:28:12,626 --> 00:28:16,406
community who worked together, slaughtered together and were friends.
461
00:28:16,478 --> 00:28:19,382
And in hard situations, they loaned, you know, they were loaning money. So it was
462
00:28:19,406 --> 00:28:23,110
really, they were Irish. The French didn't really draw a distinction between whether
463
00:28:23,150 --> 00:28:26,838
they were Catholic or Protestant. But there's
464
00:28:26,854 --> 00:28:30,614
about 65, 35. You know, money talks is what you're trying to
465
00:28:30,622 --> 00:28:34,438
say. But it was actually sort
466
00:28:34,454 --> 00:28:38,262
of a, sort of a marvel when you think about what's happening back in
467
00:28:38,286 --> 00:28:42,092
Ireland or in some ways in France itself, with this religious intolerance. But the
468
00:28:42,116 --> 00:28:45,596
key thing is really their role in wine production, which is that they were buying
469
00:28:45,628 --> 00:28:49,308
up all of the, what we
470
00:28:49,364 --> 00:28:52,924
now call first growth wines. I mean, when I say all, I mean literally
471
00:28:52,972 --> 00:28:56,120
all. And shipping them off
472
00:28:56,900 --> 00:29:00,652
to the two most lucrative markets that wanted those wines, and
473
00:29:00,676 --> 00:29:04,520
that was England and Ireland itself now.
474
00:29:04,820 --> 00:29:08,348
And no one else was buying Lafitte, Latour, Margaux, bouillon, et
475
00:29:08,364 --> 00:29:11,928
cetera. It was just for that market. It's also important to say that they weren't
476
00:29:11,944 --> 00:29:15,336
just buying and shipping. They were buying in what we would call sort of Emprimeur
477
00:29:15,368 --> 00:29:19,096
or even earlier, often in December, following the harvest. So the wines
478
00:29:19,128 --> 00:29:22,920
were super yellow. And then they would, they were the ones who would
479
00:29:22,960 --> 00:29:26,744
raise the wines sometimes up to five, seven years, kind of like
480
00:29:26,752 --> 00:29:30,472
a Rioja. They would have them in barrel that long and then ship them. But
481
00:29:30,496 --> 00:29:34,120
they would also blend them for the market, for the taste of the
482
00:29:34,240 --> 00:29:38,060
elite British and Irish markets who wanted them to
483
00:29:38,100 --> 00:29:41,516
taste somewhat differently than they would have without
484
00:29:41,668 --> 00:29:45,308
the addition of Syrah from the R
485
00:29:45,364 --> 00:29:48,800
Valley or Alicante, sorry,
486
00:29:50,180 --> 00:29:53,932
Grenache from up by, you know, just south of
487
00:29:53,956 --> 00:29:57,292
Barcelona and then
488
00:29:57,476 --> 00:30:01,308
morved from down by. From
489
00:30:01,364 --> 00:30:05,188
down by Alicante. So that reminds
490
00:30:05,204 --> 00:30:08,804
me of a word I haven't heard in a long time. Negociant. Right. That's
491
00:30:08,852 --> 00:30:12,500
exactly what they were. They were. I have not heard that in
492
00:30:12,540 --> 00:30:16,356
a long time. So what, so what Was this? The 18th century?
493
00:30:16,388 --> 00:30:19,924
You're talking about 19. This is the 18th century. And well, as you know, it
494
00:30:19,932 --> 00:30:23,444
wasn't until. Well, actually, let me back up here.
495
00:30:23,612 --> 00:30:27,188
Starting around in the, in the 1850s with the whole,
496
00:30:27,364 --> 00:30:30,770
as you know, there was a whole series of, of diseases that came
497
00:30:30,810 --> 00:30:34,370
from North America. In fact, with
498
00:30:34,490 --> 00:30:38,018
Odium, then Floxera and then downy
499
00:30:38,034 --> 00:30:41,323
mildew that hit France, 1850s, 60s,
500
00:30:41,432 --> 00:30:44,722
70s, one after the other. Phylloxera was the worst. But the two different types of
501
00:30:44,746 --> 00:30:48,110
mildew, powdery mildew and downy mildew, are also
502
00:30:49,130 --> 00:30:52,390
disastrous in some ways. Ultimately
503
00:30:52,890 --> 00:30:56,470
these were overcome. The phylloxer, certainly with American rootstock,
504
00:30:58,400 --> 00:31:02,072
but. And then you learn copper sulfate. It seems like that on the vines help
505
00:31:02,096 --> 00:31:05,512
to keep away the mildew and the
506
00:31:05,536 --> 00:31:09,320
rot. But all that to say what then
507
00:31:09,360 --> 00:31:12,700
happens is in the period 1850 to roughly
508
00:31:13,440 --> 00:31:17,064
1930s, you get this change in the
509
00:31:17,072 --> 00:31:20,552
perspective of the consumer. Whereas
510
00:31:20,616 --> 00:31:24,146
previously they wanted the elite consumers in London
511
00:31:24,288 --> 00:31:28,110
and Dublin and in Hamburg and in New York, they
512
00:31:28,150 --> 00:31:31,822
wanted. And in Paris, they wanted wines that
513
00:31:31,846 --> 00:31:35,566
were blended, that is, wines that had about
514
00:31:35,638 --> 00:31:39,134
15%, depending on the year. You know, GSM,
515
00:31:39,182 --> 00:31:42,638
Grenache, Syrah, Morvedre. And
516
00:31:42,694 --> 00:31:45,850
then what then happens with all of the
517
00:31:46,390 --> 00:31:50,222
fraud? They didn't think of that as fraud, actually. But then what
518
00:31:50,246 --> 00:31:53,902
happens with all these diseases is you get wines coming
519
00:31:53,926 --> 00:31:57,354
in from elsewhere, from, in particular, from Algeria, France's
520
00:31:57,402 --> 00:32:01,242
colony, that is then being sent off
521
00:32:01,346 --> 00:32:04,830
as Bordeaux or later Burgundy.
522
00:32:05,890 --> 00:32:09,674
And you get all this. You get things that are labeled. So
523
00:32:09,762 --> 00:32:13,190
when in the period in the 18th century, when you had
524
00:32:13,970 --> 00:32:17,626
your Chateau Lafitte, it may have been 80% Chateau
525
00:32:17,658 --> 00:32:21,322
Lafitte, 20%, something else. And people were fine with that. They didn't think of that
526
00:32:21,346 --> 00:32:24,922
as fraud. You weren't putting anything besides wine in there, and you were making a
527
00:32:24,946 --> 00:32:28,772
better product. But starting in the 1850s, up until about
528
00:32:28,796 --> 00:32:32,292
1930, you get this notion that it's a process,
529
00:32:32,476 --> 00:32:36,196
that you're now selling me something that really isn't even
530
00:32:36,268 --> 00:32:38,240
close to what you say it is.
531
00:32:40,380 --> 00:32:43,028
And so, along with
532
00:32:43,164 --> 00:32:46,852
industrialization, awareness of microbes, because Pasteur
533
00:32:46,916 --> 00:32:50,628
comes along, he identifies microbes and germs, and everybody starts
534
00:32:50,644 --> 00:32:54,164
to panic. And then you have the fact that it's Algerian wine,
535
00:32:54,212 --> 00:32:57,972
which, frankly, there are prejudices, obviously, racial prejudice, against things that came
536
00:32:57,996 --> 00:33:01,508
from Africa. And
537
00:33:01,564 --> 00:33:05,380
now this idea of blending wines from
538
00:33:05,420 --> 00:33:09,108
two different places doesn't work anymore. So by the 1930s,
539
00:33:09,204 --> 00:33:12,772
what was done in the 18th century and demanded by
540
00:33:12,796 --> 00:33:16,484
elite customers in the 18th century, by the 1930s, that's a
541
00:33:16,492 --> 00:33:19,764
criminal act. And so you get the AOC laws in the
542
00:33:19,772 --> 00:33:23,396
1930s that say if you blend this one with that one,
543
00:33:23,548 --> 00:33:27,070
you are going to jail, and that those are still the laws in place.
544
00:33:27,610 --> 00:33:31,282
So it's a fascinating history of. It's a mental shift in the mind of the
545
00:33:31,306 --> 00:33:35,150
consumer as well as a shift in production in which
546
00:33:35,450 --> 00:33:38,674
you don't consider doing that now unless you're an unscrupulous
547
00:33:38,722 --> 00:33:42,418
winemaker, whereas the very best winemakers were doing that in the 18th
548
00:33:42,434 --> 00:33:46,066
century because that's what their customers wanted. Let me stop you. That's fascinating
549
00:33:46,178 --> 00:33:49,394
because. Not that I made a career of it, but the stuff we used to
550
00:33:49,402 --> 00:33:52,946
taste over the 35 years, every Tuesday, I mean, we saw everybody's
551
00:33:52,978 --> 00:33:56,678
attempt at trying to do something that they thought was innovative in this industry.
552
00:33:56,794 --> 00:34:00,574
And one of them was a great Wine. And the poor
553
00:34:00,622 --> 00:34:01,850
guy, it was called.
554
00:34:04,230 --> 00:34:08,062
Oh man. Anyway, he had two blends and he thought that he
555
00:34:08,086 --> 00:34:11,278
was going to set the world on fire by blending Sonoma juice with Napa juice.
556
00:34:11,294 --> 00:34:14,190
It was on the label that way, which you can do in the new world
557
00:34:14,230 --> 00:34:17,678
anyway. In California you can do that all you want. But this was
558
00:34:17,814 --> 00:34:21,118
stated on the label, we're going to do this. And I just, it just hits
559
00:34:21,134 --> 00:34:24,894
me as this, it just seems to repeat itself. Look at
560
00:34:24,902 --> 00:34:28,385
Joe Franzia, the Franzia brothers, you know, getting busted for
561
00:34:28,517 --> 00:34:32,185
making bottling white Zinfandel. But it was really Grenache
562
00:34:32,297 --> 00:34:36,041
and they, they faked the leaves in the truck so that the winemaker would think
563
00:34:36,065 --> 00:34:39,241
that was Zinfandel. And you know, they, they should have gone to jail for that.
564
00:34:39,265 --> 00:34:43,049
Actually. It was about to just got fined. But you
565
00:34:43,089 --> 00:34:46,329
know, it's just so interesting because this industry seems to
566
00:34:46,369 --> 00:34:50,121
have the attraction of that kind of thing that
567
00:34:50,225 --> 00:34:53,945
to, to do something that may not seem so kosher on the
568
00:34:54,017 --> 00:34:57,705
surface and then it changes, the rules change
569
00:34:57,777 --> 00:35:01,482
and now it's not a lot. It just seems what other product in the
570
00:35:01,506 --> 00:35:05,210
world has this not
571
00:35:05,250 --> 00:35:08,710
ambition but this allure to do that,
572
00:35:09,250 --> 00:35:12,666
to try something like this? I just think that's amazing. It's consumers
573
00:35:12,698 --> 00:35:16,442
who drive these changes in many ways. So again in the
574
00:35:16,466 --> 00:35:20,282
18th century, consumers, when you read the letters from merchants who
575
00:35:20,306 --> 00:35:24,042
are speaking on behalf of their customers, who
576
00:35:24,066 --> 00:35:26,270
are writing to their producers, to the Irish
577
00:35:27,970 --> 00:35:31,546
in Bordeaux who are really in many ways the producers of the wine,
578
00:35:31,658 --> 00:35:35,050
you know, it's please don't send me any of that stuff that hasn't been
579
00:35:35,090 --> 00:35:38,730
blended with a little bit of Hermitage. I want the
580
00:35:38,770 --> 00:35:42,202
Hermitage, I want the Grenache, I want the Mourvedre from
581
00:35:42,226 --> 00:35:45,710
Spain, what they call the Alicante and the Benny Carlo.
582
00:35:46,450 --> 00:35:49,626
And I want the Hermitage. And it's too thin
583
00:35:49,738 --> 00:35:53,226
otherwise and the customers won't like it.
584
00:35:53,378 --> 00:35:56,970
Likewise, when Hugh Barton, who
585
00:35:57,010 --> 00:36:00,618
was a member of the illustrious Barton family from
586
00:36:00,674 --> 00:36:04,490
County Forbana in Ireland, in fact, it was 300 years ago this
587
00:36:04,530 --> 00:36:08,362
year that Tom Barton arrived in Bordeaux. But his
588
00:36:08,386 --> 00:36:11,882
grandson Hugh, who was running the firm in Bordeaux
589
00:36:12,026 --> 00:36:15,706
during the 1780s and 90s when the French Revolution broke
590
00:36:15,738 --> 00:36:19,442
out, he was imprisoned. He was got out of
591
00:36:19,466 --> 00:36:22,834
jail because his French born Irish wife, Anna
592
00:36:22,882 --> 00:36:26,002
Johnston, the Johnstons are also still very much in
593
00:36:26,026 --> 00:36:29,794
Bordeaux. She was able to spring him from jail because he was
594
00:36:29,802 --> 00:36:33,282
French. But then they quickly got out of
595
00:36:33,306 --> 00:36:37,010
Dodge. But before going, he went into
596
00:36:37,130 --> 00:36:40,850
partnership with a French guy named Gastier and that became part
597
00:36:40,890 --> 00:36:44,482
of Gastier. You're Certainly familiar with that. But one of the things that
598
00:36:44,506 --> 00:36:47,954
he then tried to implore the French authorities saying,
599
00:36:48,122 --> 00:36:51,796
my stocks of wine that I have, they're
600
00:36:51,828 --> 00:36:55,220
no good to you because they're blended.
601
00:36:55,380 --> 00:36:58,932
They're, you know, the Chateau Lafitte is Chateau Lafitte, but
602
00:36:59,036 --> 00:37:02,820
it's much too rich and full bodied for the French market. So please
603
00:37:02,860 --> 00:37:06,468
let me get it out of here and ship it off to the one market
604
00:37:06,524 --> 00:37:10,356
that wants this stuff. Wow. Which is the British
605
00:37:10,388 --> 00:37:13,892
Isles. That's amazing story. I did a lot of business with
606
00:37:13,916 --> 00:37:16,720
Barney Gastier over the years early on.
607
00:37:17,340 --> 00:37:21,030
So let's. I don't know if it was your conversation or with
608
00:37:21,410 --> 00:37:24,510
Tim Hani about the definition of terroir
609
00:37:24,850 --> 00:37:28,394
having changed from was, I
610
00:37:28,402 --> 00:37:32,030
think I say despicable, but it was not a positive
611
00:37:32,610 --> 00:37:36,346
term in the world of wine. And now, of course, it's
612
00:37:36,378 --> 00:37:39,962
used, as aficionados like to say, it's the
613
00:37:39,986 --> 00:37:43,802
terroir. And it's driven by terroir and maybe even one of those
614
00:37:43,826 --> 00:37:47,248
air aristocratic terms that people don't understand what you're talking
615
00:37:47,264 --> 00:37:50,640
about. But I wanted to apply it to list the current
616
00:37:50,680 --> 00:37:54,496
definition, which is what the vines have gone through
617
00:37:54,568 --> 00:37:57,952
to get to where they're at when they make the wine. And I have
618
00:37:58,136 --> 00:38:01,872
this opinion and I think you'd be the perfect person
619
00:38:01,976 --> 00:38:05,472
to reflect on that is all the history
620
00:38:05,576 --> 00:38:08,752
of. Let's just talk about the Irish who came to Bordeaux and all the things
621
00:38:08,776 --> 00:38:12,064
you're talking about right now and the blending and the unblending and then the illegal
622
00:38:12,112 --> 00:38:15,392
part of that. No longer an appellation allows that
623
00:38:15,416 --> 00:38:19,068
blending. Doesn't that all roll up
624
00:38:19,204 --> 00:38:22,348
eventually as terroir to
625
00:38:22,484 --> 00:38:26,172
that particular bottle. You're not going to taste the
626
00:38:26,196 --> 00:38:29,852
fact that some negociant Irish, negociant back in the day was
627
00:38:29,876 --> 00:38:33,676
blending, you know, Grenache and the wine. But wouldn't
628
00:38:33,708 --> 00:38:37,532
the mentality, the thought process, the education of the winemakers, the
629
00:38:37,556 --> 00:38:41,196
storytelling to the winemakers reflect
630
00:38:41,308 --> 00:38:44,730
in a bottle of wine like that. Well, that's
631
00:38:46,110 --> 00:38:49,798
another excellent and maybe very difficult question
632
00:38:49,854 --> 00:38:53,430
to answer because terroir, I mean, without, if
633
00:38:53,470 --> 00:38:57,318
you, you know, if you accept the blending of
634
00:38:57,454 --> 00:39:01,238
even, you know, 5%, 10%, 15% of wines from elsewhere
635
00:39:01,414 --> 00:39:04,130
into, you know, again
636
00:39:07,550 --> 00:39:11,248
and marketed as such, then fundamentally you're rejecting the idea
637
00:39:11,264 --> 00:39:14,620
of terroir or, you know, I don't just point out
638
00:39:15,640 --> 00:39:18,620
Bordeaux at this point in, in Burgundy, at the same time,
639
00:39:19,160 --> 00:39:22,544
their big wine to, to, to blend in the
640
00:39:22,712 --> 00:39:26,528
early modern era in the 18th century was Chateauneuf du
641
00:39:26,544 --> 00:39:29,740
Pape. So just as in Some ways, the, the, the
642
00:39:30,120 --> 00:39:33,840
chickens had come home to roost. Because in
643
00:39:33,880 --> 00:39:37,302
the, the late Middle ages, in the 14th century, in
644
00:39:37,326 --> 00:39:41,050
particular, 1309-1377, the Papacy
645
00:39:41,470 --> 00:39:44,170
was not in Rome, it was in Avignon.
646
00:39:45,070 --> 00:39:48,342
That's right. And all the popes were
647
00:39:48,446 --> 00:39:50,490
French, not surprisingly,
648
00:39:51,950 --> 00:39:54,530
all the Avignon popes, and
649
00:39:55,630 --> 00:39:59,238
they presumably were following the fashion of the court
650
00:39:59,294 --> 00:40:03,094
in Paris and of wealthy Northern Europeans who had taken
651
00:40:03,182 --> 00:40:06,984
to Burgundy wine. And what they
652
00:40:06,992 --> 00:40:10,760
called Vende Beaune was sort of. That was the. They didn't have any
653
00:40:10,880 --> 00:40:14,584
particular conception of a specific terroir. But Beaune was obviously being the
654
00:40:14,592 --> 00:40:18,136
market town there. It was all called Vende Beaune. And that.
655
00:40:18,208 --> 00:40:21,832
That was the really fashionable wine in, at the
656
00:40:21,856 --> 00:40:25,560
court, both in Paris as well
657
00:40:25,600 --> 00:40:28,780
as at the papal court in Avignon.
658
00:40:29,600 --> 00:40:33,352
But those popes obviously also had a little
659
00:40:33,376 --> 00:40:36,984
weekend house just to the north of the town of Avignon, which became
660
00:40:37,032 --> 00:40:40,860
the pope's new castle. Hence Chateau Neuf du Pape,
661
00:40:41,360 --> 00:40:45,032
which was planted with very different grapes. We know there are, I guess,
662
00:40:45,056 --> 00:40:48,180
what, 17 different types, or 13 or 17
663
00:40:49,440 --> 00:40:52,904
of grapes that you can use. And now mostly
664
00:40:52,952 --> 00:40:56,456
Grenache and Mourvedre and Syrah and Sausso and counoise, whatever.
665
00:40:56,488 --> 00:41:00,042
But. But that wasn't the wine they were
666
00:41:00,066 --> 00:41:03,242
drinking at the court at the time. They were drinking wine that had come down
667
00:41:03,266 --> 00:41:06,842
from Burgundy, but those much riper
668
00:41:06,906 --> 00:41:10,682
wines, those much riper wines produced for much riper grapes because
669
00:41:10,706 --> 00:41:14,090
it's much hotter. And they also have those very large
670
00:41:14,210 --> 00:41:17,642
stones, of course, that reflect the heat even at night in the
671
00:41:17,666 --> 00:41:21,150
summertime, and really ripen. The Grenache and the Movedo,
672
00:41:21,730 --> 00:41:25,418
those were later desired back in Burgundy as a way to
673
00:41:25,474 --> 00:41:28,230
thicken up, give some greater body
674
00:41:28,660 --> 00:41:32,412
to Burgundy wines, which by the 18th century were
675
00:41:32,436 --> 00:41:36,044
considered in some ways too thin, without the addition
676
00:41:36,132 --> 00:41:39,692
of a little touch of Chef Neuf du Pape. So by no means was this
677
00:41:39,716 --> 00:41:43,196
just a Bordeaux thing. This was very. You know, it's going on
678
00:41:43,348 --> 00:41:47,132
all over the place. And again, it was not considered fraud. What
679
00:41:47,156 --> 00:41:50,844
was considered fraud was when you added something besides wine,
680
00:41:50,892 --> 00:41:54,732
grape juice. If you were to add elderberry juice or beets, that would
681
00:41:54,756 --> 00:41:58,392
be fraud. But, you know, you can blend your
682
00:41:58,416 --> 00:42:01,740
wines as you wanted, but the very idea of blending wines
683
00:42:02,160 --> 00:42:05,832
takes away. So if you do that now in France, you have a Vin de
684
00:42:05,856 --> 00:42:07,780
France, right? So
685
00:42:10,960 --> 00:42:14,380
Chateau Palmer makes a 19th century,
686
00:42:15,840 --> 00:42:19,352
what they call a Bordeaux, 19th century blend. And
687
00:42:19,376 --> 00:42:23,192
it's basically, it adds. They get some wine from Hermitage, so some
688
00:42:23,216 --> 00:42:27,020
Syrah, and they put it in, and it's quite an expensive Wine,
689
00:42:27,340 --> 00:42:31,156
and it's, it's wonderful. But it's sold as a Vin
690
00:42:31,188 --> 00:42:34,836
de France, the lowest level, because there's some wine from the Rhone
691
00:42:34,868 --> 00:42:38,400
Valley, very high quality Amitage, but it goes in
692
00:42:38,780 --> 00:42:42,612
to. So what do you think? That. That's an interesting point. At least stop it
693
00:42:42,636 --> 00:42:46,372
there. They change it from vin de table because that, you know, that
694
00:42:46,396 --> 00:42:49,796
sounds much more generic. And now we have Vin de France. At least the word
695
00:42:49,828 --> 00:42:53,524
France is in there. But. Okay, so if the history of wine
696
00:42:53,572 --> 00:42:57,174
was to blend, and I guess the, the logic is the
697
00:42:57,262 --> 00:43:00,582
whole is greater than the sum of its parts and that's what was
698
00:43:00,606 --> 00:43:04,134
happening. Like, I, I don't think I've ever tasted an Algerian wine. I have to
699
00:43:04,142 --> 00:43:07,494
go check my database, but I would. I'm guessing this is earthy,
700
00:43:07,622 --> 00:43:11,334
heavy duty, you know, thick, thick
701
00:43:11,382 --> 00:43:15,126
skinned, extracted wine. But let's just. The idea
702
00:43:15,158 --> 00:43:18,130
of blending wines is now
703
00:43:18,990 --> 00:43:22,710
very appellated. I mean, it's very controlled by the appellation. Right.
704
00:43:23,410 --> 00:43:26,746
So what was the movement that, that
705
00:43:26,818 --> 00:43:30,522
created this, I'm going to say, chasm between the old world, which is what
706
00:43:30,546 --> 00:43:34,330
we consider today's world of wine, and Burgundy is only Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, et
707
00:43:34,330 --> 00:43:38,058
cetera. In the new world, which you can do whatever you want, you still.
708
00:43:38,114 --> 00:43:41,546
Right. That's the attraction of the French to America.
709
00:43:41,658 --> 00:43:45,354
Yeah. You can still mostly do what you
710
00:43:45,362 --> 00:43:48,634
want to, depending on where you are in Languedoc and where you are in Loire
711
00:43:48,682 --> 00:43:52,134
Valley. There are some rules here and there, but there are also places in Loire
712
00:43:52,182 --> 00:43:55,846
Valley and certainly in Languedoc, where you can do, you know, you can plant
713
00:43:55,878 --> 00:43:59,702
whatever the heck you want. What was the historical movement from the time that
714
00:43:59,726 --> 00:44:03,286
you could put Syrah in Burgundy?
715
00:44:03,398 --> 00:44:07,174
To do that and you go to jail? Well, this gets. So I'm going
716
00:44:07,182 --> 00:44:09,638
to try to tie these things together, but this gets back to your question about
717
00:44:09,694 --> 00:44:13,366
terroir. So my point was simply you can't really have this notion
718
00:44:13,398 --> 00:44:17,092
of terroir specifically in the way that you do now when
719
00:44:17,116 --> 00:44:20,520
you're allowed to bring in wines that come from a different terroir.
720
00:44:21,260 --> 00:44:24,600
So, you know, when you have two terroir together, it's
721
00:44:25,180 --> 00:44:27,840
no longer a terroir driven wine. That's right.
722
00:44:29,820 --> 00:44:33,604
And I would also argue that there was a sense terroir developed as a
723
00:44:33,612 --> 00:44:37,028
concept even while they were still blending, because most of the wine
724
00:44:37,124 --> 00:44:40,916
in what was labeled, you know, Vin de Bone, or, you know, Vin
725
00:44:40,948 --> 00:44:44,740
Deux de Grave or Poyac, it was
726
00:44:44,780 --> 00:44:48,504
mostly still from there, but it
727
00:44:48,572 --> 00:44:52,304
was. But not all from there. So, you know,
728
00:44:52,472 --> 00:44:56,192
we have these sort of binary clean cut categories that they didn't necessarily have.
729
00:44:56,216 --> 00:45:00,016
So terroir as a concept existed even when wines
730
00:45:00,048 --> 00:45:02,700
were still being blended, but
731
00:45:04,360 --> 00:45:08,112
from different, different parts of the of France or from different vineyards, you
732
00:45:08,136 --> 00:45:10,620
know, 10 miles, 15 miles apart in a different.
733
00:45:12,040 --> 00:45:15,824
But so a couple things happen in the. To go back
734
00:45:15,832 --> 00:45:19,424
to the Burgundy case, it's really in the 17th
735
00:45:19,472 --> 00:45:23,160
century when land ownership moves from
736
00:45:23,200 --> 00:45:26,020
the church to private
737
00:45:26,320 --> 00:45:30,024
individuals, many of whom are
738
00:45:30,192 --> 00:45:33,944
ennobled. So it goes from the lords
739
00:45:33,992 --> 00:45:37,560
of the church, you might say, to the lords of the secular lords, who now
740
00:45:37,600 --> 00:45:41,000
own most of the land and therefore most of the wine production in
741
00:45:41,040 --> 00:45:44,632
Burgundy. And what happens
742
00:45:44,776 --> 00:45:48,280
is that they are trying to sort of sacralize
743
00:45:48,360 --> 00:45:52,140
their. They're trying to make a product for the market, obviously, because, you know, land
744
00:45:52,180 --> 00:45:55,452
ownership is only worth something if you can make money from the products of your
745
00:45:55,476 --> 00:45:58,760
land. So to sort of secularize their
746
00:45:59,540 --> 00:46:03,196
wine. It's at that time that they
747
00:46:03,348 --> 00:46:06,320
begin to emphasize
748
00:46:06,980 --> 00:46:10,764
what we think of as this medieval concept, which wasn't,
749
00:46:10,812 --> 00:46:14,412
but that of the Klima in Burgundy. That is, this
750
00:46:14,436 --> 00:46:18,278
is my specific wine. And since
751
00:46:18,414 --> 00:46:19,494
by circumscribing
752
00:46:22,542 --> 00:46:26,342
comes from a very specific area, and it comes from, with my noble pedigree
753
00:46:26,406 --> 00:46:29,942
and my noble care, you're ennobling the
754
00:46:29,966 --> 00:46:33,622
wine and therefore increasing the chances, you might say, of
755
00:46:33,646 --> 00:46:37,030
sale. Because then it becomes something that another fellow consumer might
756
00:46:37,070 --> 00:46:40,610
say, by drinking this wine, I'm drinking this noble product.
757
00:46:41,550 --> 00:46:45,254
And of course, the better the wine is, and the better its reputation
758
00:46:45,302 --> 00:46:48,750
is, the greater the profit margin for sale. So
759
00:46:49,130 --> 00:46:51,670
it's a way to subtly.
760
00:46:53,610 --> 00:46:57,170
Be. A businessman, despite being an aristocrat, by having this
761
00:46:57,210 --> 00:47:00,994
product. So it's really, you see that as part of
762
00:47:01,002 --> 00:47:04,594
the land change from church to secular authorities in
763
00:47:04,602 --> 00:47:08,290
Burgundy, the notion of Klima. And from Klima, you know, things
764
00:47:08,330 --> 00:47:11,650
get ever smaller, down to this idea that the Klima is the
765
00:47:11,690 --> 00:47:15,522
tailwalk, and this really matters. But, you know, one of the things that sort of
766
00:47:15,546 --> 00:47:19,242
shows just how invented this concept is, is if
767
00:47:19,266 --> 00:47:23,034
you look at the Clos de Vougeau, you know, the most famous Clos in all
768
00:47:23,042 --> 00:47:26,778
of Burgundy, it's
769
00:47:26,794 --> 00:47:30,202
also the largest, but it was put together from
770
00:47:30,306 --> 00:47:34,154
the 11th century to the 14th century by Cistercian monks who
771
00:47:34,162 --> 00:47:37,882
lived right around the corner at Seitou, and they
772
00:47:37,906 --> 00:47:41,642
had about a 13 kilometer walk over to the vineyard. Of course,
773
00:47:41,666 --> 00:47:44,554
they had lay brothers and lay sisters doing a lot of the labor for them.
774
00:47:44,642 --> 00:47:47,390
But, you know, we think of the idea of this close, this unified
775
00:47:48,070 --> 00:47:51,582
vineyard, where the Terroir is fundamentally the
776
00:47:51,606 --> 00:47:55,390
same. Done these intense studies of the
777
00:47:55,430 --> 00:47:59,262
Clos de Vougeot to show that it's an incredible mosaic, that the
778
00:47:59,286 --> 00:48:03,102
monks saying, this is just the right. This
779
00:48:03,126 --> 00:48:06,318
is clay and limestone here and nowhere. And outside of this wall, it's not clay
780
00:48:06,334 --> 00:48:09,950
and limestone. Within the coat of Ugeau, you get all of these different
781
00:48:10,070 --> 00:48:13,902
soil types. So what was really going on, it had very little to
782
00:48:13,926 --> 00:48:17,774
do with this notion of a distinct terroir, had much more to do with
783
00:48:17,942 --> 00:48:21,150
the wall was there purpose of wind protection,
784
00:48:22,370 --> 00:48:26,106
erosion protection. Because when the soil drops down to the bottom of the hill,
785
00:48:26,138 --> 00:48:28,154
it's contained by a wall. And you can take it back up to the top
786
00:48:28,162 --> 00:48:31,242
of the hill and put it there and let it go down again. It's to
787
00:48:31,266 --> 00:48:35,002
keep grazing animals out and it's to define the
788
00:48:35,026 --> 00:48:38,746
workspace. Because you have to pay people in cash or in kind
789
00:48:38,818 --> 00:48:42,458
or something to work this space. So it's a way
790
00:48:42,594 --> 00:48:46,250
before payments were all cash banks, but they're often in kind.
791
00:48:46,370 --> 00:48:48,770
Like, this is how much work you have to do. What do you mean, like
792
00:48:48,810 --> 00:48:52,658
10 hours or $100? No, no, no. It's
793
00:48:52,674 --> 00:48:55,070
the space that's. It defines work.
794
00:48:56,410 --> 00:49:00,242
But it's in the 17th century that you begin to see the
795
00:49:00,266 --> 00:49:04,114
emergence of. It's this terroir that really matters. And the same thing happens in
796
00:49:04,122 --> 00:49:07,522
Bordeaux in the 1660, when Arnaud de Pontac
797
00:49:07,666 --> 00:49:10,770
gives a name to his specific
798
00:49:10,850 --> 00:49:14,278
property, Aubrion. And that's it. So
799
00:49:14,474 --> 00:49:18,206
I found a document that I guess helped
800
00:49:18,238 --> 00:49:21,262
put me on the map as a wine historian. Very small group of people, by
801
00:49:21,286 --> 00:49:24,270
the way, wine historians. But it was the first mention of
802
00:49:24,310 --> 00:49:27,502
Aubrion. And it came from King Charles II
803
00:49:27,566 --> 00:49:31,342
Cellarbrook, a month after he was returned to the throne, restored to the
804
00:49:31,366 --> 00:49:35,118
throne in June of 1660. And there it is. Arnaud
805
00:49:35,134 --> 00:49:38,782
de Pontac is shipping this wine. He wants to go right to that
806
00:49:38,806 --> 00:49:42,448
elite market. But he's not calling it Vin de Grave, he's calling it
807
00:49:42,494 --> 00:49:46,076
it O O. And so it's
808
00:49:46,108 --> 00:49:49,080
this. I mean, I think we see the same thing now with
809
00:49:50,260 --> 00:49:53,804
this specification of. In the
810
00:49:53,892 --> 00:49:57,708
delimiting of the area and the quantity, which
811
00:49:57,764 --> 00:50:01,516
heightens the prestige of the product. So when you get a, you know,
812
00:50:01,668 --> 00:50:05,452
you can get your Macallan single malt, but then when
813
00:50:05,476 --> 00:50:08,972
you get a MA that is aged 15 years,
814
00:50:09,076 --> 00:50:12,316
it's finished in two different kinds of barrels and it's a special
815
00:50:12,388 --> 00:50:15,580
edition and they only make thousand bottles.
816
00:50:16,000 --> 00:50:19,720
Well, now you've got a product that, look, not everybody can get.
817
00:50:19,760 --> 00:50:23,272
There are only a thousand Bottles out there. Right. So terroir
818
00:50:23,336 --> 00:50:24,780
helps to, in a sense,
819
00:50:27,280 --> 00:50:30,744
make land ownership and quality
820
00:50:30,792 --> 00:50:34,344
production into a more lucrative effort because you're
821
00:50:34,392 --> 00:50:37,864
limiting the amount that's being produced and you're
822
00:50:37,912 --> 00:50:41,656
delimiting the space from which it can be produced. And of course,
823
00:50:41,808 --> 00:50:44,872
very often you really are making a product that people find
824
00:50:45,056 --> 00:50:48,728
discernibly superior. But it's also. I mean,
825
00:50:48,784 --> 00:50:52,100
so it's also a marketing thing. So the notion that
826
00:50:52,480 --> 00:50:56,136
for the anti terroir group saying, oh, it's this sort of French idea, that there's
827
00:50:56,168 --> 00:50:59,400
really a bunch of bs. No, you tell me that you can
828
00:50:59,440 --> 00:51:03,080
make merceau anywhere in the world. No,
829
00:51:03,120 --> 00:51:06,664
look, Merceau makes a pretty special chardonnay that's really hard to reproduce
830
00:51:06,712 --> 00:51:10,520
anywhere else. At the same time, there is some
831
00:51:10,560 --> 00:51:14,060
truth to the idea that, that, you know, terroir
832
00:51:14,140 --> 00:51:17,676
is also and can be manipulated as a.
833
00:51:17,828 --> 00:51:21,596
As a way to market and as a way to limit competition. Wow,
834
00:51:21,628 --> 00:51:25,420
that is. That is a. It's right on. And this
835
00:51:25,460 --> 00:51:28,120
history. We're. We're already at an hour, if you can believe this. But
836
00:51:29,220 --> 00:51:32,492
because we haven't even touched on. And I wanted to get into this. I mean,
837
00:51:32,516 --> 00:51:35,484
I think we'll just say it for the next time, which is when you teach
838
00:51:35,532 --> 00:51:39,294
these things, when you do what you do as a wine historian, when you
839
00:51:39,302 --> 00:51:43,102
put on a tasting, when you have these conversations, I want to hear in the
840
00:51:43,126 --> 00:51:46,638
next episode how it's received and what people
841
00:51:46,774 --> 00:51:50,050
ask. But while we're on this subject of terroir,
842
00:51:51,110 --> 00:51:54,942
because I always thought, and this will be the final thought, that
843
00:51:55,126 --> 00:51:58,494
for instance, when the Nazis invaded Bordeaux and the stories
844
00:51:58,542 --> 00:52:02,254
about, you know, the. The local people stealing
845
00:52:02,302 --> 00:52:05,758
from the Nazis, the copper and then making copper sulfate, and then that guy
846
00:52:05,774 --> 00:52:09,524
disappeared. All these amazing stories have been handed down, not the least of
847
00:52:09,532 --> 00:52:13,236
which which you've probably read the book Wine and War having. I'm
848
00:52:13,268 --> 00:52:15,920
having dinner with the cladstrup in two weeks
849
00:52:17,180 --> 00:52:20,980
about Monsieur Hue and how
850
00:52:21,020 --> 00:52:24,772
that glass of wine that 1940 Vouvray kept him alive in
851
00:52:24,796 --> 00:52:28,612
the concentration camps. And the point I'm making is if
852
00:52:28,636 --> 00:52:32,372
you were to take the definition terroir, which you've just. You
853
00:52:32,396 --> 00:52:35,988
haven't diffused it, but you certainly have expanded the definition into this
854
00:52:36,044 --> 00:52:39,812
marketing angle, as. Whereas there is certain validity to the
855
00:52:39,836 --> 00:52:43,552
fact that it thrown in one place. I think you're wrong. I'm not saying
856
00:52:43,576 --> 00:52:47,264
terroir isn't real. Right. I'm saying I expressed that last night. I opened a
857
00:52:47,272 --> 00:52:50,752
bottle of Merceau and I also put a bottle of. Of A
858
00:52:50,856 --> 00:52:54,432
domestic Chardonnay. And it was radically different. So you can't argue that.
859
00:52:54,456 --> 00:52:58,176
Right. But it seems to me that if, for instance, Monsieur
860
00:52:58,208 --> 00:53:01,968
Hue, I went through that experience and his
861
00:53:02,024 --> 00:53:05,260
lifestyle change and his outlook on life change, all the
862
00:53:06,200 --> 00:53:10,000
steel de Vi, you know, if it all changed, that that
863
00:53:10,040 --> 00:53:12,580
becomes part of
864
00:53:13,600 --> 00:53:17,400
what they do and how they think and what their lifestyle is. When
865
00:53:17,440 --> 00:53:21,080
they make that next bottle of wine, the things that have rolled up into
866
00:53:21,120 --> 00:53:24,140
his life becomes part of that expression.
867
00:53:25,200 --> 00:53:28,504
That's the romantic part of what I think terroir might
868
00:53:28,512 --> 00:53:31,512
be. No, and I think it's a way of marking.
869
00:53:31,656 --> 00:53:33,820
Terroir is a way of marking
870
00:53:35,040 --> 00:53:38,728
time and space, particularly space.
871
00:53:38,864 --> 00:53:42,536
But I should say terroir is a way of marking space, and
872
00:53:42,608 --> 00:53:46,312
vintage is a way of marking time. And, you know,
873
00:53:46,336 --> 00:53:50,168
human beings. That's a great way to put it. We like to do many things,
874
00:53:50,224 --> 00:53:54,008
but one of the things we really want to do, it seems to make
875
00:53:54,064 --> 00:53:57,832
meaning of our lives or give meaning to our lives, is to map out time
876
00:53:57,856 --> 00:54:01,624
and space. That really helps us, you know, just be human, I
877
00:54:01,632 --> 00:54:03,940
think. And so that.
878
00:54:05,220 --> 00:54:08,972
That terroir gives us a sense of, you
879
00:54:08,996 --> 00:54:12,652
know, I understand space a little bit because it's not just from
880
00:54:12,676 --> 00:54:16,156
wine. It doesn't come from, you know, from everywhere. It comes from this particular place.
881
00:54:16,308 --> 00:54:19,756
And then when you add to that vintage, which
882
00:54:19,908 --> 00:54:23,484
isn't really a thing, believe it or not, until
883
00:54:23,572 --> 00:54:27,196
the 18th century, because up to that point,
884
00:54:27,268 --> 00:54:31,052
almost all wine, as you know, was consumed within the year. So the
885
00:54:31,076 --> 00:54:33,934
next of, you know, what vintage is it? What do you mean, what vintage is?
886
00:54:33,942 --> 00:54:37,646
It's. Here's one that doesn't. It's
887
00:54:37,678 --> 00:54:41,438
only when you age wine beyond a year that you start to,
888
00:54:41,494 --> 00:54:45,310
you know. So which year? Yeah, this. This tastes like it was last
889
00:54:45,350 --> 00:54:48,862
year's. Yeah. So. So when. When you start to
890
00:54:48,886 --> 00:54:52,734
get into these wines that
891
00:54:52,742 --> 00:54:55,934
are more carefully made from a circumscribed
892
00:54:55,982 --> 00:54:59,736
space, they actually can last longer. And then that
893
00:54:59,808 --> 00:55:03,448
allows us to map time by saying, ah, which year? And then
894
00:55:03,504 --> 00:55:06,020
that becomes sort of a fascinating way to also.
895
00:55:06,880 --> 00:55:10,696
Well, becomes one of the fascinating things about wine because not only does wine
896
00:55:10,728 --> 00:55:12,740
allow us to see, ah, there is a difference between,
897
00:55:14,480 --> 00:55:18,168
you know, Meursault and Puligny
898
00:55:18,184 --> 00:55:21,816
Montracher, which is right next door. But the wine can be slightly
899
00:55:21,848 --> 00:55:25,654
different, often are slightly different. So there's both. There's the. There's the
900
00:55:25,662 --> 00:55:29,318
terroir that makes the difference, there's the producer that makes the difference, and there's the
901
00:55:29,374 --> 00:55:33,222
year that makes the difference. And all this becomes part
902
00:55:33,246 --> 00:55:36,118
of what makes wine magical? Because there are all these
903
00:55:36,174 --> 00:55:39,958
variables that that are, are, are both
904
00:55:40,014 --> 00:55:43,830
on the pallet, but in our mind too. And that's when, you know, that's why
905
00:55:43,870 --> 00:55:47,462
wine is endlessly fascinating to people like the two of us and
906
00:55:47,486 --> 00:55:51,302
obviously a couple, you know, a few hundred million other
907
00:55:51,326 --> 00:55:54,940
people on the planet, it just to find that aspect of it.
908
00:55:55,060 --> 00:55:57,436
But I guess what I'm trying to do is understand why is it so fascinating
909
00:55:57,468 --> 00:56:00,972
to us. And I think it's the fact that it helps us map time and
910
00:56:00,996 --> 00:56:04,828
space. That's an interesting thought. I had a woman on
911
00:56:04,884 --> 00:56:06,520
last week and she is a
912
00:56:07,700 --> 00:56:11,532
PhD. She has two masters in theology and a PhD in
913
00:56:11,556 --> 00:56:12,960
theology. And she's
914
00:56:15,060 --> 00:56:18,508
making that same connection through the Bible and
915
00:56:18,564 --> 00:56:22,062
wine as expression of, of God's will
916
00:56:22,246 --> 00:56:26,062
to our soul. And so that's a whole different level of
917
00:56:26,086 --> 00:56:29,090
conversation in regards to that. But it was really, really interesting.
918
00:56:30,070 --> 00:56:33,822
But that's a really important question because there's no other beverage that
919
00:56:33,846 --> 00:56:37,566
does that, that asks those questions. You know, it seems to be
920
00:56:37,638 --> 00:56:40,446
sort of unique that way. And of course, you know, that's one of the reasons
921
00:56:40,478 --> 00:56:43,902
it's been so important to so many religions. I mean,
922
00:56:43,926 --> 00:56:47,010
certainly within the broad Judeo Christian tradition,
923
00:56:48,290 --> 00:56:51,962
but even before that with, with, you know, Greek and Roman
924
00:56:52,026 --> 00:56:55,850
and the Mesopotamian, you know, I'm leaving out some cultures there too. But
925
00:56:55,890 --> 00:56:59,386
you know, within all these traditions, wine was
926
00:56:59,458 --> 00:57:02,442
this a
927
00:57:02,466 --> 00:57:06,170
distinctly spiritual beverage in a way
928
00:57:06,210 --> 00:57:09,978
that say, beer didn't become that, or other
929
00:57:10,034 --> 00:57:13,578
narcotics didn't become, become that
930
00:57:13,714 --> 00:57:17,350
said that. It, you know, it remains, I think, sort of
931
00:57:17,390 --> 00:57:21,222
unique in that sense. My dad, we were in Armenia and we
932
00:57:21,246 --> 00:57:24,934
were talking about wine shows and we'll talk about that next time
933
00:57:24,942 --> 00:57:28,502
we're off camera. But we were talking about wine shows together. But how do
934
00:57:28,526 --> 00:57:32,310
we take some of these concepts and put them into film, put them into
935
00:57:32,350 --> 00:57:36,102
reels so that people would pay attention more than 30 seconds depending on, you
936
00:57:36,126 --> 00:57:39,862
know, what we're talking about. And one of the, one of
937
00:57:39,886 --> 00:57:43,572
the subjects I wanted to peel back, and you'll probably be
938
00:57:43,596 --> 00:57:46,852
helping me with this when the time comes because we are in Armenia. We are
939
00:57:46,876 --> 00:57:50,548
sitting with the Pope of Armenia, the. They call him in Eshm.
940
00:57:50,724 --> 00:57:54,520
And I just was noticing that throughout his residence
941
00:57:54,940 --> 00:57:57,560
and throughout Armenia history and throughout Armenian
942
00:57:57,980 --> 00:58:01,700
icons, grapes are there. I mean, it's everywhere. I'm sure
943
00:58:01,740 --> 00:58:05,444
like most civilizations, the, the concept of
944
00:58:05,452 --> 00:58:09,078
wine and grape is there. And so my, my, my
945
00:58:09,134 --> 00:58:12,646
thought was how do we, how do I, how can I peel back
946
00:58:12,718 --> 00:58:16,374
the importance of wine in the cult?
947
00:58:16,462 --> 00:58:20,214
The, the religious culture of Armenia. You know, where can I
948
00:58:20,222 --> 00:58:23,974
go? Where can I find. Why are grapes represented everywhere you
949
00:58:23,982 --> 00:58:27,750
go? Grapes and pomegranates and that's. And I don't like pomegranate wine, so
950
00:58:27,790 --> 00:58:31,622
I'm not going to do that. And so I'll leave it at
951
00:58:31,646 --> 00:58:35,494
that. And, and we have a lot more to talk about next time and
952
00:58:35,502 --> 00:58:38,734
I hope we can do this soon. I look forward to our next, next discussion.
953
00:58:38,822 --> 00:58:42,190
I, I didn't even touch on half the stuff here, but this stuff was really,
954
00:58:42,310 --> 00:58:46,014
really, really fun, Chad, to hear. What you have to say and
955
00:58:46,102 --> 00:58:49,854
well, my, my pleasure. And, and again, I hope we can add more of
956
00:58:49,862 --> 00:58:53,598
these because I'm having as much fun as you are. So we will thank
957
00:58:53,614 --> 00:58:57,390
you again for this, this, this morning and we will
958
00:58:57,430 --> 00:59:00,926
reconvene if I, I'll be in Paris for a week and Sicily. I'll be back
959
00:59:00,998 --> 00:59:04,574
and I think when we come back sometime in April, we'll get back on and
960
00:59:04,582 --> 00:59:08,270
we'll, we'll talk more about the consumerism and, and how
961
00:59:08,310 --> 00:59:11,626
you approach it and, and to promote
962
00:59:11,658 --> 00:59:15,002
this. Great. I look forward to that. Look forward to it.
963
00:59:15,026 --> 00:59:18,586
Paul, safe trip and enjoy your wine
964
00:59:18,618 --> 00:59:22,330
drinking in Paris and Sicily and all those other places. Thank you. Cheers.