From Rocks to Wine: Diana Khandilyan’s Unique Journey Through Terroir and Winemaking
I jumped in on a LinkedIn conversation about wine, soil, volcano's and more. Thought I would contribute to the message string. That is when I engaged Diana on the concept of terroir. But not just any terroir, but volcanic terroir. Then I realized that Diana's expertise in the realm of wine...is the soil! She is a expert in energy and geophysics!
Diana Kandiglian is the kind of guest who measures her excitement in bottles, not hours. If you’ve ever wondered what happens when a scientist who reads rocks for a living falls in love with wine, this episode is for you. You’ll learn how Diana’s background as a geophysicist shapes her curiosity about soils and terroir, and why she believes the best wines surprise you, just like life itself. Through her stories, you’ll uncover why Armenia’s volcanic soils produce wines unlike any other, how centuries-old vines navigate climate change, and why boutique winemaking has become the soul of the country’s industry. Paul and Diana peel back layers of old world tradition and new world innovation, exploring appellations, indigenous grape varieties, and the risks of chasing global trends at the expense of authenticity. You’ll be puzzled—but enlightened—by the paradox of Armenia’s old vines and young winemakers, and why Diana advocates for some rules to keep the magic alive. There’s a fascinating discussion of soil science, climate, and grape selection: from Texan clays to French boulders, you’ll understand how the land whispers its secrets into every glass. You’ll hear why the future of wine in both Armenia and unexpected places like Texas and Brazil depends on resilience, sustainable practices, and stories worth telling. If your palate craves complexity and your mind seeks narratives from every region, Diana’s “Pour Across America” vision will inspire you to taste wines you’ve never imagined—and appreciate the intersection of science and soul in every sip. By the time you finish listening, you’ll carry away a deeper understanding not only of Armenian wine, but of what it means to seek adventure, surprise, and connection in your glass.
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Pour Across America Wine Club
Website: www.pouracrossamerica.com -
Grgich Hills Winery
Website: www.grgich.com -
Zulal Wines
Website: www.zulalwines.com -
Van Ardi
Website: www.vanardi.com -
Karas Wines
Website: www.karaswines.com -
Messina Hof Winery
Website: www.messinahof.com -
McPherson Cellars
Website: www.mcphersoncellars.com -
En Vino Wine Shop (Envino)
Website: www.invinowine.am -
Terravox
Website: www.terravox.wine
#winepodcast, #winetalks, #DianaKandiglian, #PaulKalemkiarian, #Armenianwine, #terroir, #geophysics, #soilscience, #volcanicwine, #winenatural, #sustainablewine, #boutiquewine, #fingerlakeswine, #pouracrossamerica, #winetasting, #climatechangewine, #winelover, #winenewworld, #wineeducation, #wineinnovation
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I don't want consistent wine because my
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life is not consistent. My year is not the same last
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year or this year. Right. We are getting older, we feel differently,
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we want different things. We want more of this and less of that. Why my
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wine should be the same year after year. Right. I want this
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excitement of opening the bottle and
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don't know what to expect and let it surprise me. Sit
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back and grab a glass. It's Wine Talks with
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Paul K. Hey, welcome
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to Wine Talks with Paul Kay. And we are in studio today. Beautiful Southern
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California here on a October day. About to have a
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conversation with Diana Kandiglian. Introductions in just a minute.
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You gotta pay attention. I was just looking at a video I put out with
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Violet Grgich. Her father was the founder of
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Gurgich Hills Winery, of course, the famed winemaker who made the
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Chardonnay in 1973 that won the judgment of Paris.
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It's a great conversation. Our second time around on the show and
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so have a listen to that. But not while we're here. We're here to have
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a multi talented conversation or conversation with multi
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talented Diana Kandelian. She is an energy expert in
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soils and terroir as, as a day job. But
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she's a certified sommelier as well as founding
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the Poor Across America Wine club. Welcome to the show.
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Thank you, thank you. Glad to be here. Paul. We had a brief conversation
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before just to sort of understand where we're coming from on this thing and it
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sounded so interesting because I found you, so to speak,
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on LinkedIn. You had written an article about the volcanic
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terroir of Armenia. Yeah. And that spawned
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an interest because you, at that moment, at least on LinkedIn, your, your trade
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was more about geophysiology. What do you call it? Geophysics.
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Geophysics. Geophysics, yes. And the impact of that. And that's what
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you do every day? Basically, yes. So tell me.
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I was trained as an oil and gas geophysicist
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and that's what I did for over 20 years across the
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world. So it is, it is very
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interesting profession because you need to understand a lot of physics but also to
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understand what rocks do and how they react and how we
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can read them. Right. So basically our job is to
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read the rocks and understand what is happening, where are they coming from,
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what they create for, for us as, as a
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human being in terms of energy. That's, you know,
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you just spawned a thought. I got to ask you this question and then we'll
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dig into that. But friends of mine invested in
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a gold mine in Texas and it was all based
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on, I don't know, the science of it, but they. They
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haven't hit anything, of course, and it's been, you know, years since they started
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drilling. Is that even possible to. To predict
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something like gold in the ground based on what?
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Surface, soil or core samples? Is that it? It
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is possible. It's. It's not that easy, but it is possible.
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Basically, if you have a lot of it in one place, then, yes, we have
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methods. Think about when you go to ultrasound or.
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Or other types of gamma rays or anything that you
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scan your body with. So we do the same for the.
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For the soil. And if there is a lot of that thing in
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one place, then we probably would detect it. Yes.
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For oil and gas, it's harder because we need to go significantly deeper
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under the ground. But, yeah, see, I kind of asked that question
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because my friends do listen to this, and I want them to know that they
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got accolades, if not just because they
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invested in a gold mine and the
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proverbial gold mine. So how did you do this?
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You're born in Armenia or were you born in. Yes, I was born
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in Armenia. And when I was born, it was still
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Soviet Union. And halfway through
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my adolescence, Soviet Union got dissolved.
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And fortunately, we had very big earthquake in
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Armenia that put us in a bad shape in
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terms of energy supply. Precisely. So after several
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years of fighting it and not being able to go to school in the winter
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because it's cold, my. My family decided to move
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to Mosc, and this is where I finished the school
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and got to Oil and Gas University and get my
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bachelor and master degree there. Wow. And how old were you when that happened?
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I was born in 79, so I. Didn'T want
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to put you on the spot for that, but. No, we
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moved to Moscow in 93, so I was 14. So
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was this interest in soil and rock and geophysics
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spawned from the earthquake? It was 1988. Right,
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yeah. So, you know, it's actually very interesting question, because if
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you ask me at the time, I would say no. But looking back,
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everybody who have been in Armenia will notice that the only thing we
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have is rocks. Right. The rocks are around you, everywhere
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the mountains are around you. There is nowhere you can look not to
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see beautiful mountains. It can be Ararat Mountain,
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our iconic landmark, or it can
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be Aragat's mountain. It can be any mountain, but there's mountains
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everywhere. And the most beautiful
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about it is they are different. The
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rocks are different, the obsidians everywhere are different, and the
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composition of the rocks are different. So Although
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I cannot say that I went to study this because I
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was in love with rocks, but rocks were part of my life for sure. Right.
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Well, you know, one of the first things I ever collected as a kid, and
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I'm certainly not a specialist in any of this, was obsidian. And.
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And Armenia is rife with obsidian, at least in certain
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districts. And it's such a beautiful stone and it's so diverse.
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Right? Yeah. And I wanted to bring some home, but I guess it's a rather
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substantial penalty for trying to sneak obsidian out of the country.
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Oh, no, no. You can buy it. If you go to the vernissage
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or somewhere, you can buy a piece of it and then you can bring it.
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Oh, you can? Yeah. I thought I was going to be arrested at the airport.
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Ernakian was going to arrest me or something. No.
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You know why we're on the subject. Does wine grow in that kind of soil?
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You know about wine more than I do, but wine grows in
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the places where nothing else does. Right. And sometimes you look at
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the Armenian hills and you think, how
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on earth something can grow there because it's all ash
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or it's all big rocks and. And somehow we build,
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build, because there is no other way. It's not just to grow this
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beautiful, beautiful R and E wines or whiskey heart
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grapes. And it's. It's amazing actually, because
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in some places, I mean, most of the Armenia is
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ungrafted still. Right. So it's pretty unique in the
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world. Most of it is dry farming. We don't have
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water to irrigate them. We don't have that much energy and electricity to bring water
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there. So if it rains, good. If it doesn't, well.
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So it is actually like nature
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phenomenon, I think, in Armenia. You know, that's an
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interesting thought. I just. That you just thought of because, you know, the argument goes
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on about where wine started and you know, hell, you could probably find
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remnants of fermented grapes, you know, that are maybe older than even the
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Armenian intact winery. But regardless, there's that argument
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that wine started in the Caucasus. The Armenians like to take credit for
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it. I listened to the ARPA thing the other day and
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they're talking about, well, there wasn't even an Armenia when that winery was
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established. So you really can't say that. But let's just suffice it to say
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that it was. It was in the caucus area where
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wine started as a consumable product for the, for humanity.
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I mean, we all know that Noah landed the ark and planet grapes,
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etc. Yeah, but what you just said is
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fascinating because it's naturally sustainable and this whole
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deliberate movement across the world in wine. And I think wine is
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one of the great products of the world that can lead itself to
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sustainability. But it's already naturally sustainable
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in Armenia, there's no water. It has to grow deep.
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It's almost inventively organic because of that, at least
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biodynamic to the extent of you only have so
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many days or certain days you can do things because of the fact there's no
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water. I never thought of that before.
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Is that significant in your mind when it comes to the soil and the
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way Armenian wines propagate themselves and the fact they've been there
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for so long and they still survive? Yeah. You know,
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we are facing a couple of crisis, wine crisis
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this day. Right. One is about the consumption,
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but the other one is about it's getting hotter and
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hotter every day, every year. And
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in a typical, typical grapes that were growing in
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certain location 20 years ago are struggling today. And
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if you think about the old world with Appalachians with very
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strict rules that simply don't allow you
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to adapt, it is becoming problem. Right. So one thing
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that growers are trying to do is going higher in elevation, if they
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have that elevation. Now think about Bordeaux. There is not much you can do.
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There is no elevation there. Right. Others are trying
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to pick earlier, not let
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grapes to ripen that much, and then, et
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cetera. Armenia is pretty interesting in that way because
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as you said, we are probably the oldest place in
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the world that made wine, but we are also very, very
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young. Right. And this is an
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interesting paradox because we can find 150 years old
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vines in Armenia that probably were not producing
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very good wine for 100 years. And then in the last
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couple of decades, we have entrepreneurs
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that came, Armenian heritage that came from all around the world
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to build this industry from scratch with knowledge, with
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understanding and with great respect and love to.
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To what they do and our soil. Right. So
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there is. There's two things. One is
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our crop resilience. They have been through everything in the
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last 6,000 years. Right. There was a global warming. There was
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almost like many ice ages. Everything happened in the last 6,000 years
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and the wine is still there. So on that point of view, I
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think our wines can adapt as Armenian people do as well.
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Right. On the other side, if we
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keep this industry as it is right now, I'm frankly in
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love with the state of our industry today, which is
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relative. They are all small producers. They
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deeply care about what they do. If we keep it this way.
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Armenia will be one of the few countries that can give this
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boutique wine experience with a taste of terroir
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without heavy machinery, without pesticides,
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and attending to, if it's not fully biodynamic, but
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attending to clean practices, sustainable practices,
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and this feel of, you know, homemade food or
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homemade wine, somebody made it for you. It's not just there on the shelf.
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You know, the. You said a little mouthful there, and I want to retract it
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a little bit for the listeners. Well, it's important stuff because it makes you.
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When I hear it coming from you, a scientist who's involved with. With
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geophysics, it. It adds an extra element of complexity
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and not only to the conversation, but the wine. If you think about Armenia's
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old world problem, the fact that it's old world is 6,000
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years old. We all talk about the suspension of the industry,
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so to speak, for 75 years with the Soviet rule, but. So that
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makes it Old World. But then we've done so much in the, in the recent
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years that you can call it New World. It's not.
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It's not plagued with the Appalachian rules that Bordeaux and Burgundy and those
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places of the world have. So that gives it a new world sense
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because you can plant whatever you want. But there is an identity
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crisis going on. And I've heard it many, many times, vintners,
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that there's that staunch Armenian pride that we're not going to grow anything
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but indigenous varieties, which is perfectly fine. There's plenty
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of them. And then there's the like, well, what's the world drinking and wine is,
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let's face it, wine's consumer driven and they drink Chardonnay and Cabernet
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Merlot, and those are the big grapes. And so why aren't we planting those? And
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that argument will go on. But what you
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said lends itself to. To
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eventually the quality of the wine in
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the sense of its complexity, because, wow, we
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have all this tradition and these old vines that are going to produce this
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character that you can't find anywhere else in the world, and that's going to be
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blended with newer technologies to make wines that extract
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their character. And all of a sudden, we've got layers of complexity that
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are going to show up on these wines. Maybe not quite yet, but there are
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a few. That's going to be rather dramatic. You
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know, this is. This is a conversation
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that I think we will go
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on and on around the world. But I would
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strongly advocate for some appellation type
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rules in Armenia. And I'll tell You why? Yes, we
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need to protect our indigenous grapes. Yes, we need to
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protect this. Very careful winemaking practices that emerge
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naturally. Nobody forced this winemakers to do it. They were doing it
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because this is the right way to do. But also, I'm
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sure in California and Texas, we, we don't have that. We don't see that much.
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But in California, you probably see a new wine, Armenian wine
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producer every, every day on the shelf, right? So
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there's a. There's a joke around. Like every Petros now
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have wine making facility or
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growing grapes. That
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can be a problem. I'm not saying it is yet, but that can be a
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problem. Because if we start to do what
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world has done 20, 30 years ago for the new
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world, we will be in the same troubles as everybody else now. And
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what is that? It's a clonal selection. It's
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pesticides, it's herbicides.
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Is choosing the side that are producing
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more grapes and eventually more wine rather than good
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wines or reduced yields, you know,
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and it's easy, right, to jump into this because, hey,
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Zulaal is producing I don't remember how many thousand bottles, but it's
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very small and it's incredibly good and it has such a reputation, right?
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So if I introduce a bottle of Zulao to one of my friends, they would
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see another Armenian wine. They will go buy it and I'm not sure they will
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like it. So I would want to keep this. Good.
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Because we can, right? We are small country, we are
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very limited resources and we can't keep it very, very small and
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boutique. Go ahead. Yeah. On the
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other side, what you said Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs and.
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Yes, but also no. How much more
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Chardonnay do we need? Do we need Chardonnay from Armenia? I don't need
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Chardonnay from Armenia. I'm happy with Kangun. I'm happy with
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Voskehat, you know, well done, well made.
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I don't know. I don't know. I think we. And when I
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say we, unfortunately it falls into people like you and
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I and our diaspora that we
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should make sure that world knows about our
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wines. That in WSET
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or court of Master Sommelier books there is a mention of
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Armenia, which today is not. I just completed
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the course and it struck me as
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terrible because not even once we
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talked about Armenia or Armenian heritage or the
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cradle of the world or here's a wine and try to drink it.
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I took it on myself to organize events, bring Armenian
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wines to the, to the people and make sure even at
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the W said school, they know, you. Know, well, you
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know, I had. This goes back many years, actually. And this is how
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slow the industry is. And I have comments on what you just said, a couple
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of them. But one Master Psalm,
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Emmanuel Kamigi, who makes wine in Pira, Spain. I've said this on the show before,
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was visiting California years ago. I'm talking about 10 years ago, probably. And he
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went to Sacramento, the famed Corti Brothers market
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and wine shop. Daryl Cordy is one of the world renowned experts
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on Madeira and port. And. And Daryl brought
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out an Armenian wine. I don't. Emmanuel did not tell me
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which one it was on this podcast. But as a psalm
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and that you studied and you got your certification, he said to
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himself, wow, this is really good. And I now I need to learn
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about this as an academic academian in the world of wine,
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as a Master Psalm, I need to learn about Armenia. Because when he went
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through the Master psalm test in 1996, you know, South
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America was like the new region. Yeah. Upcoming region. So
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that was interesting. That was 10 years ago. It still is in that sort of
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position that we got to teach what's going on. The second thing he said was,
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and it was really good. And I have to now, as a maker of wine
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in Purat, Spain, I have to compete with this wine at this price.
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But let me, let me just dovetail off of that. There are many, many districts
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of the world that have taken in my career of 35 years of doing this
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that have just come around from not being a bulk juice
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district. Languedoc is one of them. I mean, they're making some very fine wines of
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all kinds of varieties down there, and they're rather sophisticated. Yeah. There is
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Puglia, which we're going to be visiting next week. You know, here
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was a bulk wine district of Italy, and with
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amazing terroir, really now finally getting
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accolades about its quality and its
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sophistication that took 30 years almost.
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And so I think, I think your position is pretty interesting.
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Accurate. Interestingly accurate. That's even possible
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in that. Yeah. If you hold the line, you might
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stay away from that bulk wine mentality that plagued
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both of these regions and many more. And they had to fight to get
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some kind of worldwide presence on the wine, proverbially
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a wine table. Let me go back to something a little bit
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about the geophysics of this. And you talked about
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climate change and certainly from the
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UV situation and the way they canopy the vines. And that Bordeaux
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stuck with these grapes and Burgundy stuck with Pinot Noir and Chardonnay and a couple
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others. And they have to train
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themselves to deal with the changes in temperature.
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How does that affect the soil? What happens to the rocks that,
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particularly in a place like Grave, where it's all rocky, how does that change? Does
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that radically change the way the grapes are sensing heat
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ripening? Yeah. So I actually spent
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a month traveling through several regions of France, and
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I am in love with Chateaudon of the Pap, that area, and
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then eventually the Contrite, and up
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to Bordeaux, through Burgundy and then through Bordeaux.
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So it is very,
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very interesting. Think about regional Chateauneuf de Pap, right?
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They have 13 approved grape varieties that they can use in a
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blend. Of course, each of these grapes have their own
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personality. For example, one likes heat,
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like Grenache. It's okay under the sun. It doesn't care.
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The others may not be that susceptive to so
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much heat. When you have these big rocks, as in a terroir or
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Chateauneuf du Pape, they are big, literally boulders, and they
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are almost. Almost like white color. They
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reflect heat up. So in the past, it was
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very beneficial because it was cool. So grapes will
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receive the sunlight twice.
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They will receive it directly from the air, and they will receive it reflected
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from the rocks back. Right. So that
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was pretty cool. The other thing that is interesting is the
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soil underneath this big boulders and
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big rocks, it's not black, so it's still white,
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which means that it reflects most of the heat up. So it doesn't
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heat itself that much. So your roots are a
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little bit cooler, and that allows you to basically
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develop or keep the acidity for longer. Right. So we
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let it dry for longer and get these juicy, fruity,
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bigger reds. But on the other side, we can have
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the beautiful acidity. And depending on which grape
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variety we use, we can make the plant up to our
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liking. Right. Now, if you go to Burgundy, where there
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is only one Pinot Noir, then what do you
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do? Right. Couple of wineries throughout
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the last maybe hundred years or so,
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they were doing clonal selection, meaning that they were like a type of
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this Pinot Noir, and they would clone it to have
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the same type of this, of this grape. And today,
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this is a problem because they are comfortable
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to living in certain condition. They don't have that adaptability
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to adjust for a little bit warmer, a little bit cooler, a little bit more
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water, a little bit less water. Whereas non clonal selection,
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and there are very few of them today in. In Burgundy, non
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clonal selection, they are more resilient. The good,
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I don't know if it doesn't make any fair comparison, but think about
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your dog breed, right? If you have this very
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sophisticated small dog that was bred to be this
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small, they are more susceptive to disease rather than
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street dog. Nothing can kill that dog, right? So basically
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the same goes to wine. In some sense the clonal selection
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is more susceptive to problems or that less adaptive to
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climate change. Whether diversity is always better, even
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within one grape variety. That's so interesting.
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I think it's an ongoing academic argument and certainly
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many, many Burgundians are not testing other
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varietals, but in Bordeaux they are testing things like to Rio
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Nacional to see what happens. And wow, lo and behold, can
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you imagine, like Lafitte Rashield adds Tariga Nacional to their
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blend. That's probably not in the near future, but certainly the broader
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Bordeaux appellated wines might include that. And that's a, that's going to be an
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act, a serious act of, of, of
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intervention of all the vintners to try and even make those changes. But
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let me ask you this question. You mentioned it earlier, actually. The
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Armenian vines have gone through all these seasons, the 6,000 years worth of seasons,
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150 year old vines that are, that have survived all kinds of things.
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There was that, there was that cold snap right
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through the Veuve Clicquot Champagne days in the late 1700s, early
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1800s. And I wonder if they were, I wonder if they sat around
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the chateau and said, well, we better start testing new grape
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varietals. We can't live on Pinot Meunier and Pinot Noir and
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Chardonnay. Or do they just, you know, deal with it, which obviously they
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did. I just find it fascinating. I wonder if, if those
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conversations even existed back then. Not that this is a. Yeah, I.
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Think in the regions like Champagne or
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Chablis, even Sancerre, it is
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very cold and it was always cold. Right. So those
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grape varieties were, the problem was they were not
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ripening. They were resistant to cold during the
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winter. But the problem was that they were not ripening. That's why all
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this Champagne was created, because you eventually add sugar to it.
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Otherwise it's very, very acid driven wines. Right?
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That's true. Now they are living in a, in a fantastic boom because
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everything ripens. Yeah, it is amazing. So Champagne is one of those
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regions that, oh my God, they will be producing more and more of
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beautiful Champagne. They don't have a problem of vintage. They
400
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blend. Right. They can always blend amount of
401
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one of the three grapes or produce varietal or whatever they want to do. So
402
00:25:03,410 --> 00:25:07,140
they are actually happy right now. Let's see for
403
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how long. But for now, they are happy. Well, I guess on the flip side
404
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of that happiness, you know, now you can grow those grapes
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in. In England, you know, And I found some. I found some
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notes from my father on his trip to England, which is a very interesting story.
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I won't bore you with it now, but, you know, all the grape
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varieties in those days were German, and they were slightly sweet, and that's all
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they could grow there because they. The. The cooler temperatures. And now, you know, they
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can make. I mean, I've had fabulous sparkling wine from.
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Yeah, from the Isle of White. Right. It's amazing.
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Yeah. But so let me. Let me tell you
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the story, and then you tell me how this happens. Had a woman on the
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show, Stephanie Franklin. She. She was a descendant of
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a Texan who founded
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a city called Shankoville. It's south of Dallas, about southeast
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of Dallas, about an hour and a half in. And obviously not part of
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the wine trail in Texas. Not near Austin, not near Lubbock, all that
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stuff. But she's. She's determined to grow grapes
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there because her grandfather. I can't remember her great grandfather. Grandfather founded
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this town. It was one of the first cities in America that was for
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freed slaves post Civil War. And so she's
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intent on producing Shankoville appellated wines.
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What would she do to decide what to grow there?
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What's the process for that? Oh, great question. She
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would analyze the soil first. She would understand. By
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coring it. Yes, ideally, yeah. Or if you have
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some outcrops or cliff a little bit. We don't need
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much. We just need about 10, 15ft to understand what
430
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is going on, because this is how far your roots potentially can go
431
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there. Right. The problem that we have in Texas overall is
432
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we have too much clay. And the clay is
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very. It has very high. This is technically,
434
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I'll go technical, you know, it has very high porosity
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and very low permeability, meaning it absorbs a lot of water, but that
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water stays there. Like, think about in. In your
437
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sponges, vice versa. All pores are connected. So you
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put water. Water goes away, right. Whether in clay, just absorbs, it
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swells, but it stays there. It doesn't move anywhere.
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So grapes don't like that. Because grapes don't like their
441
00:27:29,760 --> 00:27:33,200
feet wet. If they reach this layer full of water,
442
00:27:33,760 --> 00:27:36,960
it's too much water. They swell, and
443
00:27:37,360 --> 00:27:41,040
the crop is basically watery. It's not good grape. It's not
444
00:27:41,040 --> 00:27:44,640
Grape you can make wine off. So some areas
445
00:27:45,120 --> 00:27:48,800
in Texas, like Hill country, for example, they have
446
00:27:48,880 --> 00:27:52,610
that clay layer very, very deep. So they have enough
447
00:27:53,090 --> 00:27:56,770
of diverse soil on top of it that is draining very
448
00:27:56,770 --> 00:28:00,490
well despite of high rain seasons
449
00:28:00,490 --> 00:28:04,170
and too much water that comes from the atmosphere, it
450
00:28:04,170 --> 00:28:07,970
drains out. So that's why you can grow some decent grapes
451
00:28:08,370 --> 00:28:11,570
in Texas. Not all of them are decent, but some are
452
00:28:13,090 --> 00:28:15,170
so interesting. Yeah. So
453
00:28:16,850 --> 00:28:20,600
I don't believe that in my studies. And I
454
00:28:20,600 --> 00:28:24,400
was invaded by the ta. Ta, what's the Texas Alcohol Beverage
455
00:28:24,400 --> 00:28:27,960
Control Board here? Tabc. They came here right where you. Where I'm sitting
456
00:28:28,120 --> 00:28:31,920
and audited me on wines we were sending there. And
457
00:28:31,920 --> 00:28:35,440
we were. We had featured wines from Lubbock, from the McPherson
458
00:28:35,440 --> 00:28:39,160
Winery. And it was. I thought it was great. But they're all Rhone varietals. And
459
00:28:39,160 --> 00:28:42,480
then you go to places like Messina Hoffa, outside of
460
00:28:42,480 --> 00:28:45,480
Fredericksburg or Kerrville, and they're growing things like
461
00:28:45,480 --> 00:28:49,320
Sagrantino. Was that natural selection by
462
00:28:49,320 --> 00:28:52,520
these people, do you know, in Texas? Or they just
463
00:28:53,000 --> 00:28:56,680
randomly picked them? I think the natural
464
00:28:56,680 --> 00:29:00,480
selection is happening now because everybody planted whatever they thought
465
00:29:00,480 --> 00:29:04,120
they want to drink at some point or they thought would go
466
00:29:04,280 --> 00:29:08,040
right at the beginning. But then now, little by
467
00:29:08,040 --> 00:29:11,440
little, they start to see that, hey, these
468
00:29:11,440 --> 00:29:15,290
grapes are growing better, more susceptible to. Less
469
00:29:15,290 --> 00:29:19,090
susceptible to rot, for example, or they
470
00:29:19,090 --> 00:29:22,770
are not getting burned by this scorching sun that you have
471
00:29:22,770 --> 00:29:26,410
in Hill Country. So naturally, we will
472
00:29:26,410 --> 00:29:29,690
adapt to some sort of grapes that will be better. That's why
473
00:29:30,970 --> 00:29:34,650
I moved to Texas in 2015 for the first time and
474
00:29:34,730 --> 00:29:38,250
somebody brought Texan wine to me. I was like, yeah, I'm never drinking this again.
475
00:29:39,530 --> 00:29:43,380
Of course, that doesn't mean that all of them were bad, but couple that
476
00:29:43,380 --> 00:29:46,780
I tried in 2015, I didn't go back.
477
00:29:47,340 --> 00:29:50,900
And now I'm doing this conscious effort to try
478
00:29:50,900 --> 00:29:54,580
different wines because I know I can find some
479
00:29:54,580 --> 00:29:58,100
good ones. A friend of mine is making movedre, for
480
00:29:58,100 --> 00:30:01,420
example, 100% moved. It's beautiful wine.
481
00:30:01,900 --> 00:30:05,580
You know, not every bit is beautiful because he needs to learn
482
00:30:05,580 --> 00:30:09,180
how to adapt to different climate conditions. And
483
00:30:09,180 --> 00:30:12,700
sometimes in around Fredericksburg, it can be really cold. But
484
00:30:13,020 --> 00:30:16,760
hey, there is a great potential there. I tried couple
485
00:30:16,760 --> 00:30:20,440
of viogniers in Texas. Some of them are still
486
00:30:20,440 --> 00:30:24,280
too chewy, but couples were very interesting and preserving this,
487
00:30:24,280 --> 00:30:27,160
you know, characteristic Viognier, honey,
488
00:30:27,880 --> 00:30:31,560
Honeysuckle, this beautiful flavors and aromas. So
489
00:30:31,960 --> 00:30:35,800
I think we will. We will see a great wines from Texas
490
00:30:35,880 --> 00:30:39,720
very soon. If. If somebody argue they are not yet there very soon we will.
491
00:30:40,770 --> 00:30:44,250
You Just said two important things, and I'll touch on them both. One of them
492
00:30:44,250 --> 00:30:46,930
is whether it's wine,
493
00:30:47,890 --> 00:30:51,650
food, restaurants, maybe even consumer products.
494
00:30:51,890 --> 00:30:55,650
You can only probably burn your bridge once or twice
495
00:30:55,650 --> 00:30:58,530
before you've scared the consumer away. And I'll highlight this
496
00:30:59,730 --> 00:31:03,250
locally. There's a restaurant here in Hermosa Beach. We go there all the time.
497
00:31:03,570 --> 00:31:06,970
We went one day and the
498
00:31:06,970 --> 00:31:10,770
meat in the. In the sandwich was just. Wasn't
499
00:31:10,770 --> 00:31:13,850
good. And we've been reluctant to try it again.
500
00:31:14,650 --> 00:31:18,450
And that's. That's just humanity. Yeah. So the same thing
501
00:31:18,450 --> 00:31:22,130
is going to happen with wine. And there's a lot of bad Armenian wines, let's
502
00:31:22,130 --> 00:31:25,730
face it. And you know, we're not in Texas. We are
503
00:31:25,730 --> 00:31:29,570
lucky. We just got the best ones. Yeah, of course. So my job
504
00:31:29,570 --> 00:31:33,290
is easier. I mean, just, you know, we know this is the fact you tasted
505
00:31:33,290 --> 00:31:36,330
a Texan wine, you said you'll never go back, and it probably took you many
506
00:31:36,330 --> 00:31:40,030
years. There's a restaurant. There's a restaurant here in the neighborhood that I. That I
507
00:31:40,030 --> 00:31:42,710
sometimes went to twice a day for breakfast and lunch.
508
00:31:43,830 --> 00:31:47,510
I haven't been there for 10 years because the last time I went, the meat
509
00:31:47,510 --> 00:31:51,310
and the hamburger was bad. And so we went the other day, I reluctantly
510
00:31:51,310 --> 00:31:54,950
went in, recognized the waitresses. They were so happy to see me after 10
511
00:31:54,950 --> 00:31:58,510
years. And I was glad to say that they changed purveyors and the meat was
512
00:31:58,510 --> 00:32:01,990
really good. And I'll go back. But it took 10 years to win that confidence
513
00:32:01,990 --> 00:32:04,710
back. Yeah. And that's why the restaurant, the Armenian trade.
514
00:32:06,070 --> 00:32:09,190
There's something happening in the Armenian trade which is not unlike any other part of
515
00:32:09,190 --> 00:32:12,710
the world. And that is in most glaring
516
00:32:12,710 --> 00:32:15,830
example is Napa Valley, where somebody makes a lot of money
517
00:32:16,390 --> 00:32:19,590
doing whatever they do, and then they go, I'm going to go retire in the
518
00:32:19,590 --> 00:32:22,790
lifestyle of wine. And they go to Napa Valley, they build a big chateau, and
519
00:32:22,790 --> 00:32:25,670
then they realize a, it's really hard to make money in this business. I'm tired
520
00:32:25,670 --> 00:32:29,110
of losing it. And they realize it's really farming
521
00:32:29,350 --> 00:32:33,020
and they don't have a lot of chances to be successful with it. And
522
00:32:33,100 --> 00:32:36,220
it's happening in Armenia, and you mentioned it earlier, there's a lot, a lot of
523
00:32:36,220 --> 00:32:40,020
new brands. I had Mariam Sagatalian
524
00:32:40,020 --> 00:32:42,780
from Envino on the show not too long ago, and she's like, yeah, we got
525
00:32:42,780 --> 00:32:46,300
a lot of new brands coming here. Yeah. Are there enough consumers?
526
00:32:46,940 --> 00:32:50,740
It is scary, frankly. It is scary. Especially one thing
527
00:32:50,740 --> 00:32:54,380
is, are there enough consumers? And the other thing is we
528
00:32:54,380 --> 00:32:58,070
are cannibalizing the
529
00:32:58,070 --> 00:33:01,670
few things that we have, right? And those few things is
530
00:33:01,910 --> 00:33:05,710
authenticity of our land. Because you can. There are not
531
00:33:05,710 --> 00:33:09,110
many wines in the world where you can sniff it and say, oh,
532
00:33:09,510 --> 00:33:13,110
I know where it's coming from. Right. And I actually, I did that.
533
00:33:13,110 --> 00:33:16,230
I took Vanardi
534
00:33:17,190 --> 00:33:20,230
R E Reserve to
535
00:33:22,390 --> 00:33:25,260
restaurant here in Houston that is on a Michelin wait list
536
00:33:26,370 --> 00:33:27,890
and I took it to their sommelier.
537
00:33:30,530 --> 00:33:34,130
We know each other from way back. I went to Rice university
538
00:33:34,210 --> 00:33:37,970
for our MBAs together. But I took the wine to him.
539
00:33:37,970 --> 00:33:41,650
I was like, I'm not going to tell you what it is. What do you
540
00:33:41,650 --> 00:33:45,250
think? You literally could see that
541
00:33:46,130 --> 00:33:49,570
his eyes were running around. He's trying to bring some
542
00:33:51,340 --> 00:33:54,780
safe heaven. What it is, how I can identify it. And he was like, I
543
00:33:54,780 --> 00:33:57,860
have no clue what it is, but I know for sure it is coming from
544
00:33:57,860 --> 00:34:01,340
high altitude volcanic soil. Wow,
545
00:34:01,580 --> 00:34:05,300
this is amazing. This is amazing. So I
546
00:34:05,300 --> 00:34:08,820
want to. I don't know if we can. You and I can plead to
547
00:34:08,820 --> 00:34:12,660
Armenian government to create some populations. Let's do it. Because we need to preserve
548
00:34:12,660 --> 00:34:15,580
it. If you want to do experiment. I actually did this.
549
00:34:16,300 --> 00:34:20,110
I had a wine tasting here in Texas and I brought
550
00:34:20,110 --> 00:34:23,470
them one wine
551
00:34:23,630 --> 00:34:27,390
or any 100% R&E. One is 100 and,
552
00:34:28,670 --> 00:34:31,790
sorry, 10 hundred meters
553
00:34:31,790 --> 00:34:35,150
altitude and the other one is 1600
554
00:34:35,229 --> 00:34:38,950
meters altitude. Right. So it's 500 meters about what
555
00:34:38,950 --> 00:34:42,030
it is. 1500ft difference between one and the other.
556
00:34:42,510 --> 00:34:46,110
Both are 100% irony. They taste completely
557
00:34:46,110 --> 00:34:49,480
different. But you can get this, you can get this
558
00:34:49,480 --> 00:34:53,200
volcanic minerality tension in it,
559
00:34:53,200 --> 00:34:57,000
but the taste is different. So I answer this, how
560
00:34:57,000 --> 00:35:00,760
to preserve that? Let me ask this question. This is a consumerized question.
561
00:35:00,840 --> 00:35:04,640
Maybe your studies as a psalm have, you know, presented this
562
00:35:04,640 --> 00:35:08,360
to you because of the consumer, because this is really a consumer reaction question.
563
00:35:08,360 --> 00:35:12,120
It's not about. We understand that. I mean, in Argentina they've
564
00:35:12,120 --> 00:35:15,380
been. They've been growing Malbec at all these various
565
00:35:16,020 --> 00:35:19,780
altitudes up the, up the Andes. And of course
566
00:35:19,780 --> 00:35:23,420
it makes different wines. But does anybody care? I mean,
567
00:35:23,420 --> 00:35:27,060
does the consumer care about. And I'm saying this tongue in cheek because,
568
00:35:27,300 --> 00:35:30,820
yeah, you and I were talking about soil and the heat exchange of the
569
00:35:30,820 --> 00:35:34,660
rocks. Does the super care? And I'm going to suggest that most consumers
570
00:35:34,660 --> 00:35:38,180
don't really give a crap. They just want to know what tastes good. And they.
571
00:35:38,500 --> 00:35:42,100
And that can they. Can they rely on that taste from year to
572
00:35:42,100 --> 00:35:44,940
year, despite the vintages?
573
00:35:46,860 --> 00:35:49,980
What have you sensed from that? I think.
574
00:35:51,180 --> 00:35:54,140
And I'll tell you, yes, they do. And I'll tell You why?
575
00:35:54,860 --> 00:35:58,660
So we are in a business for a long time and you
576
00:35:58,660 --> 00:36:02,460
see that lately everybody's talking about young people don't
577
00:36:02,460 --> 00:36:05,660
drink wine. Right. So we are worried about
578
00:36:06,300 --> 00:36:10,140
the Generation Z or Alpha or whatever will come afterwards
579
00:36:10,140 --> 00:36:13,680
and whether they will drink wine and whether they will jump on the
580
00:36:13,680 --> 00:36:16,200
train drinking wine as we do.
581
00:36:17,240 --> 00:36:21,000
So first of all, I
582
00:36:21,000 --> 00:36:23,960
don't think it's a problem because I didn't drink wine until I went to Argentina
583
00:36:23,960 --> 00:36:27,399
and I was 25 by then. So there's a personal
584
00:36:27,400 --> 00:36:31,080
example. Yes, that's the first thing. Second
585
00:36:31,720 --> 00:36:35,240
is the younger generation
586
00:36:36,200 --> 00:36:39,130
are curious or care
587
00:36:40,010 --> 00:36:43,290
about what it is they consume. Right.
588
00:36:43,770 --> 00:36:47,530
So instead of just, instead of just buying whatever
589
00:36:47,530 --> 00:36:51,290
$5 wine, they probably would rather buy
590
00:36:51,690 --> 00:36:55,170
10. And the value is irrelevant at this point. Just the
591
00:36:55,170 --> 00:36:58,930
magnitude, right. If they know that there
592
00:36:58,930 --> 00:37:02,610
is a story behind it. So I
593
00:37:02,610 --> 00:37:06,430
agree. If we, if we can ride
594
00:37:06,430 --> 00:37:10,070
that train in Armenia, we have so much to
595
00:37:10,070 --> 00:37:13,670
tell. We have such a beautiful stories like just take
596
00:37:13,670 --> 00:37:16,830
the Vanardy story. I think it's my favorite
597
00:37:17,150 --> 00:37:20,910
producer of reds in Armenia at this point. They
598
00:37:20,910 --> 00:37:23,790
ring a bell for their wines every morning and evening.
599
00:37:24,830 --> 00:37:28,590
That's what they do because they think this vibration and as a
600
00:37:28,590 --> 00:37:31,790
physicist, I can say I understand they think the vibration
601
00:37:33,360 --> 00:37:36,080
helps the wine. Wines like it and they grow better.
602
00:37:37,600 --> 00:37:41,160
Well, what a beautiful story, right? It's a great story. In fact, I have a
603
00:37:41,160 --> 00:37:43,360
wine in my cellar here that's from
604
00:37:44,320 --> 00:37:47,999
Sardinia. I believe it's a Sangiovese. And they're the ones that play
605
00:37:47,999 --> 00:37:51,120
music, classical music, because the rock and roll,
606
00:37:51,600 --> 00:37:55,320
they claim that the rock and the, the grapes don't like rock and roll, which
607
00:37:55,320 --> 00:37:59,040
I think is hilarious. But you know, there's some.
608
00:37:59,040 --> 00:38:02,160
The Gen these thing is interesting and I think a lot of that has to
609
00:38:02,160 --> 00:38:05,960
do with every generation thinks they're unique and they've
610
00:38:05,960 --> 00:38:09,200
got different approaches to everything and they just repeat the same problems. And that's why
611
00:38:09,200 --> 00:38:12,800
history repeats itself. And so the Gen Zs, I believe
612
00:38:12,800 --> 00:38:16,440
all wine generations, all generations come to the wine table.
613
00:38:16,440 --> 00:38:20,160
Eventually they realize it's a connection to the soil and the earth. Not
614
00:38:20,160 --> 00:38:23,800
maybe deliberately, but it happens. And like I said,
615
00:38:23,880 --> 00:38:27,590
they all think they're going through their own, own special unique situation.
616
00:38:27,670 --> 00:38:31,470
And why they do adult doing things like the neo prohibitionist right now, this
617
00:38:31,470 --> 00:38:35,230
non alk movement. Hell, we had prohibition in America, okay?
618
00:38:35,230 --> 00:38:37,910
And wine survived that. In fact, it started
619
00:38:38,230 --> 00:38:42,030
fabulously actually and actually came out of it better
620
00:38:42,030 --> 00:38:45,590
than it was because places like Napa were founded based
621
00:38:45,670 --> 00:38:49,390
on that Prohibition. Was it true? I read somewhere
622
00:38:49,390 --> 00:38:53,200
that There was more wine cell sold during Prohibition that before it.
623
00:38:53,680 --> 00:38:57,280
That's a good question. I've never reviewed that. You know, the. There certainly was a
624
00:38:57,280 --> 00:39:00,800
lot of wine made during Prohibition. And what people don't understand, it was not
625
00:39:00,800 --> 00:39:04,320
illegal to drink alcohol. It was illegal to make it
626
00:39:04,720 --> 00:39:08,280
for public consumption. You could make all, virtually all the wine you
627
00:39:08,280 --> 00:39:11,880
wanted in your garage. So one of the great latent industries
628
00:39:11,880 --> 00:39:15,680
of Prohibition were grapes being trained out
629
00:39:15,680 --> 00:39:19,450
to the east coast so people could make wine. And, and one of the great
630
00:39:19,450 --> 00:39:23,090
winemakers facilities in Los Angeles is still around and they
631
00:39:23,170 --> 00:39:26,610
survived because of Sacramento wine. But let me go to
632
00:39:26,850 --> 00:39:30,410
quickly when we jump on something called a woman, young
633
00:39:30,410 --> 00:39:34,130
girl. And this, this is this kind of bucks, this whole generation, this
634
00:39:34,130 --> 00:39:37,730
Gen Z thing. Her name is Jess Drewy and she
635
00:39:37,730 --> 00:39:41,490
created a brand four, only four years ago called Whiny Baby.
636
00:39:42,530 --> 00:39:45,410
If you were to pick an adjective for millennials, it would be
637
00:39:45,650 --> 00:39:49,020
experiential, maybe even lazy, you know,
638
00:39:49,260 --> 00:39:53,060
But Gen Z's, I tell you my experience with them
639
00:39:53,060 --> 00:39:56,860
in business anyway, they are whiny babies. I mean seriously.
640
00:39:56,940 --> 00:40:00,740
And so she created a brand for Gen Z's called Whiny Baby. You can look
641
00:40:00,740 --> 00:40:04,380
it up. She just got bought by Gallo. This is a
642
00:40:04,380 --> 00:40:08,220
huge success story for somebody in the consumer side of wine. She,
643
00:40:08,220 --> 00:40:12,020
she saw this idea, she came up with a name which is appropriate for their
644
00:40:12,020 --> 00:40:15,780
generation and they're flocking to us so much so
645
00:40:15,780 --> 00:40:19,630
that it's a brand like Gallo decided we better jump on this thing
646
00:40:19,630 --> 00:40:22,910
because it's going to take off. And I thought that was really interesting. So I
647
00:40:22,910 --> 00:40:26,430
think you're right. I think that the romantic side of wine
648
00:40:28,030 --> 00:40:31,790
eventually is the lure for every generation
649
00:40:32,350 --> 00:40:36,150
and its historical character and value to our, to our body
650
00:40:36,150 --> 00:40:39,710
and our soul, really, our soul. So how much of your day now, since
651
00:40:39,710 --> 00:40:43,070
you're transitioning from rocks
652
00:40:43,640 --> 00:40:47,480
and soil to wine, it sounds like it's an ambition of
653
00:40:47,480 --> 00:40:51,000
yours is spent with wine and spent with
654
00:40:51,320 --> 00:40:52,200
your day job.
655
00:40:55,880 --> 00:40:59,360
One thing that you learn in this life, I think
656
00:40:59,360 --> 00:41:03,200
it's integrity. I have a full time job and I'm paid
657
00:41:03,200 --> 00:41:07,040
by that job. So 100% of my daytime goes
658
00:41:07,040 --> 00:41:10,760
to that job. However, the other 100%,
659
00:41:11,560 --> 00:41:15,200
yeah, these, including the knives in my
660
00:41:15,200 --> 00:41:18,960
dreams and everything goes to wine because I
661
00:41:18,960 --> 00:41:22,120
think it's, I discovered this great
662
00:41:22,200 --> 00:41:25,840
passion and it's not only for Armenian wines,
663
00:41:25,840 --> 00:41:29,520
but it's also for more carefully
664
00:41:29,520 --> 00:41:33,080
produced wines, you know, curated wines, something. For example,
665
00:41:33,400 --> 00:41:37,080
you mentioned that you make wine in Spain. I was in Ribera del Duero
666
00:41:37,800 --> 00:41:40,590
about a couple of weeks ago. And
667
00:41:42,110 --> 00:41:45,630
I love Rivera wines always. But
668
00:41:46,670 --> 00:41:48,430
it struck me as
669
00:41:50,910 --> 00:41:54,630
they are having a problem. Although we don't think about Ribera as
670
00:41:54,630 --> 00:41:58,350
a problem. Right. They have altitude. They can always go higher. It's relatively
671
00:41:58,350 --> 00:42:02,190
cooler. But the DO appellation rules
672
00:42:02,190 --> 00:42:05,910
are so strict that they cannot pick grape when
673
00:42:05,910 --> 00:42:09,580
they think they should pick. They need to to wait until the appellations say you
674
00:42:09,580 --> 00:42:12,700
can. Right. And that makes, for example,
675
00:42:12,700 --> 00:42:15,940
tempranillo is a grape that is early ripening.
676
00:42:16,500 --> 00:42:19,980
So until they are allowed to pick the grape, there is no
677
00:42:19,980 --> 00:42:23,659
acidity left whatsoever. Wow. And you will not hear the
678
00:42:23,659 --> 00:42:27,500
stories from the big ones, like Protos or SEPA 21. They
679
00:42:27,500 --> 00:42:30,900
will not tell you that. But if you go to small producers who make 10,000
680
00:42:31,060 --> 00:42:34,860
bottles, they will tell you how much tartaric acid they need to
681
00:42:34,860 --> 00:42:38,140
add into the mix, because they
682
00:42:38,140 --> 00:42:41,970
can't make the wine to even hold for a couple of
683
00:42:41,970 --> 00:42:45,650
years unless they add acidity into it. Right. What they are
684
00:42:45,650 --> 00:42:49,450
trying to do is, and it's very interesting, you talked about different varietals.
685
00:42:50,810 --> 00:42:54,330
I think by the appellation, they must use 85% of
686
00:42:54,330 --> 00:42:57,890
Tempranillo. Most of the big ones
687
00:42:57,890 --> 00:43:01,610
claim that they use 100%, but the smaller ones, they
688
00:43:01,610 --> 00:43:04,910
use 15% or as much as they can of
689
00:43:04,910 --> 00:43:08,590
Cabernet Sauvignon because it is
690
00:43:08,590 --> 00:43:11,870
very acidic wine. So it can help
691
00:43:12,430 --> 00:43:14,270
compensate for this acidity.
692
00:43:16,030 --> 00:43:19,630
It ripens well. It's a good soil for CAB as well.
693
00:43:19,790 --> 00:43:23,630
But it has this acidity that can complement Tempranillo and
694
00:43:23,710 --> 00:43:26,990
help us drink this Riberas that we like so much. Right.
695
00:43:27,550 --> 00:43:31,230
So those kind of stories is something that I chase
696
00:43:31,230 --> 00:43:34,740
around the world. And my new discovery, I'll tell you,
697
00:43:35,780 --> 00:43:39,260
is a Brazilian wine. And I lived in
698
00:43:39,260 --> 00:43:43,100
Brazil for 10 years. And at the time, again,
699
00:43:43,100 --> 00:43:46,900
it was like, yeah, bring me Argentina or Chile. It's close and it's good.
700
00:43:47,540 --> 00:43:51,220
Every year I go for the last three or four years, I discovered more and
701
00:43:51,220 --> 00:43:53,940
more beautifully constructed wines.
702
00:43:54,820 --> 00:43:58,420
I'm not sure they will be consistent every year, but. Because it's new,
703
00:43:58,420 --> 00:44:00,700
right? But they are beautiful.
704
00:44:01,900 --> 00:44:05,620
I have a friend, he's a geologist who
705
00:44:05,620 --> 00:44:09,020
studied in Bordeaux, and he's making his own wine.
706
00:44:09,260 --> 00:44:13,020
The brand is Tactus. I have a couple of bottles
707
00:44:13,020 --> 00:44:16,700
with me right now, and they are beautiful, absolutely beautiful wines.
708
00:44:17,100 --> 00:44:20,860
You know, it's interesting. Brazil, I featured I personally, right soon
709
00:44:20,860 --> 00:44:22,460
after, I bought one of them
710
00:44:24,220 --> 00:44:28,070
featured brand called Marcus James, which
711
00:44:28,070 --> 00:44:31,830
cracks me up, because many times, especially in those days
712
00:44:31,990 --> 00:44:35,670
when they were bringing wines to America from a region like Brazil or
713
00:44:35,670 --> 00:44:39,030
Moldavia or something, they tried to make it sound like it was American.
714
00:44:39,830 --> 00:44:43,670
Oh, there was one Moldavian wine it featured called Hickory Ridge. You
715
00:44:43,670 --> 00:44:47,270
know, it's like, really? But
716
00:44:47,430 --> 00:44:49,350
tell me what you said when you said something earlier.
717
00:44:51,760 --> 00:44:55,520
How would you define then the term you use properly made
718
00:44:55,520 --> 00:44:56,000
wine?
719
00:44:59,520 --> 00:45:02,960
I think the role of winemaker is the least intervention.
720
00:45:03,760 --> 00:45:07,200
I would never go out and advocate, oh, don't put any
721
00:45:07,360 --> 00:45:11,200
fertilizer or any this or any that because it's
722
00:45:11,200 --> 00:45:14,320
not fair. We need to help the wine to blossom into.
723
00:45:15,040 --> 00:45:18,370
Help grapes to blossom into wine. And that's the
724
00:45:18,370 --> 00:45:22,010
winemaker job, to make sure that every step is done.
725
00:45:22,250 --> 00:45:25,530
Least intervention, but right to the wine. And that would be,
726
00:45:26,410 --> 00:45:30,050
in my understanding of properly made wine, you
727
00:45:30,050 --> 00:45:33,530
don't add, you don't subtract. You allow your
728
00:45:33,530 --> 00:45:37,130
grapes to talk for themselves. That's a good
729
00:45:37,130 --> 00:45:40,970
articulate definition. And it leads to this
730
00:45:41,050 --> 00:45:44,870
comment, and I brought this up with A lot
731
00:45:44,870 --> 00:45:48,670
of French winemakers have been through the show here, which is,
732
00:45:50,110 --> 00:45:53,790
if that's the case, which it should be, then
733
00:45:54,030 --> 00:45:57,669
it takes a lot of time to get to that
734
00:45:57,669 --> 00:46:01,230
point so that the vintage is the talking point of the,
735
00:46:01,390 --> 00:46:05,150
of the wine from year to year and not all the emaciations
736
00:46:05,150 --> 00:46:08,660
of additives and chemicals and the way you treat
737
00:46:09,460 --> 00:46:13,220
wine at, through the process of making it. And that
738
00:46:13,220 --> 00:46:15,780
leads me to a comment by Juliana
739
00:46:16,260 --> 00:46:19,220
Ernakian at Karas.
740
00:46:23,220 --> 00:46:26,660
And that is when Michel Roland went to see if
741
00:46:26,660 --> 00:46:30,460
kadas was even sustainable or, you know, could be even done. And our
742
00:46:30,460 --> 00:46:34,220
odd value was, yes, you can grow grapes here, but we
743
00:46:34,220 --> 00:46:37,790
won't know for a hundred years, you know, what's going to happen.
744
00:46:38,670 --> 00:46:41,990
And I thought, wow. And you should appreciate that as a
745
00:46:41,990 --> 00:46:44,910
geologist, that, wow. It takes a long time
746
00:46:45,630 --> 00:46:49,230
for the, the vines to reflect what they're doing and then to understand
747
00:46:49,230 --> 00:46:52,950
what that is and then go through so many emaciations of that, of the
748
00:46:52,950 --> 00:46:56,110
terroir changes that now we understand
749
00:46:56,670 --> 00:47:00,350
how this wine is going to be and that leads to the definition.
750
00:47:00,350 --> 00:47:04,070
There's no bad vintages if it's, if you know that much. There are no
751
00:47:04,070 --> 00:47:07,830
bad. There's ones that taste better than others or that you appreciate rather
752
00:47:07,830 --> 00:47:11,590
than others, but all of them will reflect a properly made
753
00:47:11,590 --> 00:47:15,310
wine. A free flex that place to
754
00:47:15,310 --> 00:47:18,870
that point. A couple of months ago I was in Finger
755
00:47:18,870 --> 00:47:22,670
Lakes and Finger Lakes, you get around. Yes.
756
00:47:24,030 --> 00:47:27,870
And Finger Lakes is this iconic place in United
757
00:47:27,870 --> 00:47:31,510
States. Right. First of all, the Dr. Constantine
758
00:47:31,510 --> 00:47:34,590
Frank and all the history of him bringing the
759
00:47:35,640 --> 00:47:39,160
vitis vinifera and etc. But one wine
760
00:47:39,160 --> 00:47:42,360
was very curious for Me. And it's a Hillock Hox.
761
00:47:45,000 --> 00:47:48,680
So they are very young winery. I think they have three
762
00:47:48,680 --> 00:47:52,520
or four vintages in a bottle. So it's probably
763
00:47:52,520 --> 00:47:56,160
like 10 years old wine by now. And I had
764
00:47:56,160 --> 00:47:59,720
opportunity to have this small vertical tasting. 2000,
765
00:48:00,850 --> 00:48:04,690
I think it was 19, 20, 21 and 22, something like that,
766
00:48:04,690 --> 00:48:08,530
if I'm not mistaken. And 19 again,
767
00:48:08,610 --> 00:48:12,330
if memory serves me well, was very bad year. It was
768
00:48:12,330 --> 00:48:16,050
cold, it was rainy, it was
769
00:48:16,050 --> 00:48:19,890
not very, very pleasant against 22. That was
770
00:48:19,890 --> 00:48:23,410
absolutely fantastic year for the wines. Right. And
771
00:48:24,530 --> 00:48:28,220
you taste, you taste this austerity
772
00:48:28,300 --> 00:48:32,140
in a wine versus the plush. And we are talking
773
00:48:32,140 --> 00:48:35,860
about Riesling, dry Riesling. Right. So you can taste the austerity in
774
00:48:35,860 --> 00:48:39,500
a wine of 2019 and the splashness
775
00:48:39,820 --> 00:48:43,620
and ripeness in 2022. However, it's not
776
00:48:43,620 --> 00:48:47,100
a bad wine. It's just different. That's
777
00:48:47,180 --> 00:48:50,620
right. So I. Yeah. And I'm actually,
778
00:48:51,910 --> 00:48:55,750
I don't want consistent wine because my
779
00:48:55,750 --> 00:48:59,270
life is not consistent. My year is not the same
780
00:48:59,350 --> 00:49:02,710
last year or this year. Right. We are getting older, we feel
781
00:49:02,710 --> 00:49:06,230
differently, we want different things. We want more of this and less of that.
782
00:49:06,470 --> 00:49:10,270
Why my wine should be the same year after year. Right. That should
783
00:49:10,270 --> 00:49:14,110
be wine. I want this excitement of opening the
784
00:49:14,110 --> 00:49:17,670
bottle and don't know what to expect
785
00:49:18,000 --> 00:49:21,760
and let it surprise me. I think that's the fundamental
786
00:49:21,760 --> 00:49:25,440
difference. And we all need the wines that are in the supermarkets,
787
00:49:25,440 --> 00:49:29,200
the Josh's and the Apothec reds and those, those are vented and bottled and
788
00:49:29,200 --> 00:49:33,040
sugared so that they taste the same. But there's also, there's
789
00:49:33,040 --> 00:49:36,840
also a move, not a movement. But there's also a functionality and study that shows
790
00:49:36,840 --> 00:49:40,240
that people will get bored of that. They got bored of white Zinfandel in
791
00:49:40,240 --> 00:49:43,960
1974. They'll get bored of that palette and they'll seek other things
792
00:49:43,960 --> 00:49:47,780
in. The complexity of a wine you're talking about will eventually come to the
793
00:49:47,780 --> 00:49:51,580
table. And there's always the argument that wine should
794
00:49:51,580 --> 00:49:55,420
react to the consumer, which I don't agree with. Yeah. And
795
00:49:55,420 --> 00:49:58,940
the consumer needs to react to the wine, as you just
796
00:49:58,940 --> 00:50:02,459
stated very nicely in that my life is not stable and
797
00:50:02,459 --> 00:50:06,260
consistent year to year. Why should the wines be? Why can't they reflect something
798
00:50:06,260 --> 00:50:09,820
different? So we're, we're at the end of our time here. But I wanted, I
799
00:50:09,820 --> 00:50:12,940
wanted to sort of point this out and get your opinion on the Armenian trade
800
00:50:12,940 --> 00:50:16,620
just for a second. Through this conversation, we discussed many little
801
00:50:16,620 --> 00:50:20,260
districts that, that are emerging districts. You just mentioned Brazilian
802
00:50:20,260 --> 00:50:23,500
wines. I mean, they've been around forever. Like I said, I Featured1 probably 20 years
803
00:50:23,500 --> 00:50:26,860
ago and really no movement on the shelves here in America.
804
00:50:27,340 --> 00:50:30,980
Mexico is another one. The Valley of Guadalupe is huge. Hugely
805
00:50:30,980 --> 00:50:34,620
popular now for resorts, cuisine, and now
806
00:50:34,620 --> 00:50:37,980
wines coming to America really slow. I mean, really
807
00:50:37,980 --> 00:50:41,800
slow. The Finger Lakes is another one. I mean, they've been around forever. I
808
00:50:41,800 --> 00:50:44,160
visited in 1994. I went to
809
00:50:46,400 --> 00:50:49,680
Millbrook, New York and I watched them, you know,
810
00:50:50,240 --> 00:50:53,440
prune the vines in three feet of snow going, what are you doing?
811
00:50:54,640 --> 00:50:57,920
You nuts? You know, but another place that is
812
00:50:57,920 --> 00:51:00,800
emerging, but man is so hard to get traction.
813
00:51:01,120 --> 00:51:04,640
Friuli. Even that, that part between Slovenia and
814
00:51:04,640 --> 00:51:08,220
Italy, you know, to try to make headwinds in American wine
815
00:51:08,220 --> 00:51:12,060
shelves is not easy. Haven't even talked about
816
00:51:12,060 --> 00:51:15,740
Croatia, which has incredible wines coming to the
817
00:51:15,740 --> 00:51:19,540
US which is one of the biggest markets in the world. How
818
00:51:19,540 --> 00:51:23,300
is Armenia going to do this? What do you think the path is? Is
819
00:51:23,300 --> 00:51:26,940
the vine and Wine foundation, the government side, going to be the people, the crux
820
00:51:26,940 --> 00:51:29,420
of all this, the fulcrum to make things work? Or is it going to be
821
00:51:29,420 --> 00:51:33,110
the vintners? What do you think? What do you think? I have two parts for
822
00:51:33,350 --> 00:51:37,110
that. First of all, let me share very quickly
823
00:51:37,270 --> 00:51:41,070
my passion that I'm working on right now, precisely because of what
824
00:51:41,070 --> 00:51:44,670
you said you probably
825
00:51:44,670 --> 00:51:48,510
know, but most of people don't, that every state in United States produces
826
00:51:48,510 --> 00:51:51,910
wine. Every state, including Alaska, Hawaii,
827
00:51:51,910 --> 00:51:55,750
Utah, any of them. How much do we know? I'm in
828
00:51:55,750 --> 00:51:59,010
Texas, I know Texan wine and I know California,
829
00:51:59,170 --> 00:52:03,010
Washington, Oregon. That's about it, right? And then the same is
830
00:52:03,010 --> 00:52:06,530
for they know their own wines and then California, Washington and Oregon,
831
00:52:07,650 --> 00:52:10,930
because I think it's incredibly unfair. And
832
00:52:11,090 --> 00:52:14,770
places like Finger Lakes or Arizona or Michigan,
833
00:52:16,530 --> 00:52:20,050
they need to get some spotlight. I'm building
834
00:52:20,050 --> 00:52:23,810
my Poor Across America wine club and I
835
00:52:23,810 --> 00:52:27,430
will be traveling around those states, selecting the wines and
836
00:52:27,430 --> 00:52:30,750
delivering to my subscribers. And it will be
837
00:52:32,510 --> 00:52:36,350
within, within the certain price range, the best I can find. And it's not only
838
00:52:36,350 --> 00:52:39,710
about the quality, it's also about the story, sustainable
839
00:52:39,710 --> 00:52:43,550
practices and, and everything like that. Right? So that's, that's
840
00:52:43,550 --> 00:52:46,030
the one thing. The second thing for Armenian wines,
841
00:52:48,110 --> 00:52:51,370
I think it will take our diaspora to step up, up
842
00:52:51,850 --> 00:52:55,410
and not just to drink it, but to do what you are doing,
843
00:52:55,410 --> 00:52:58,970
right? Invite people, talk about Armenian wine, try to promote
844
00:52:59,210 --> 00:53:02,410
the good wines and create this differentiation of
845
00:53:03,050 --> 00:53:06,730
why this is a good wine, why it should be on your table. And
846
00:53:07,049 --> 00:53:10,770
I don't think we need to replace neither Fruli or
847
00:53:10,770 --> 00:53:14,450
Puglia. We just add to this mix for the
848
00:53:14,450 --> 00:53:17,990
people who are curious, who are open to trying
849
00:53:18,070 --> 00:53:21,590
something new. And believe me, I can. I found so many people
850
00:53:21,590 --> 00:53:25,350
around me who tried my wines. Well, not my wine,
851
00:53:25,350 --> 00:53:28,950
Armenian wines, who tried Armenian wines, who went and bought
852
00:53:28,950 --> 00:53:32,630
bottles after it and who texted me, oh, my God, my mom. Love it.
853
00:53:32,630 --> 00:53:36,070
Or, you know, this was amazing. I served it at this table.
854
00:53:36,470 --> 00:53:39,910
So it will be slow, but it takes a lot of legwork.
855
00:53:40,790 --> 00:53:44,550
It's very slow. I want to add to your Pour Across America
856
00:53:45,170 --> 00:53:47,890
list of things to investigate. Okay.
857
00:53:49,170 --> 00:53:52,610
And I read about this gentleman in the Smithsonian magazine.
858
00:53:53,090 --> 00:53:56,930
His name is Eiserhold and the winery is
859
00:53:56,930 --> 00:54:00,690
called Terravox. T E R R A V O X. Okay.
860
00:54:00,690 --> 00:54:04,210
And he actually, I think he found some of these
861
00:54:04,210 --> 00:54:07,730
root stocks in Texas, but he read a book from the
862
00:54:07,730 --> 00:54:11,450
1800s about the grapes that were being grown in America pre
863
00:54:11,450 --> 00:54:14,290
prohibition. And you know, as you know, the
864
00:54:15,090 --> 00:54:17,710
Midwest of America is sort of the cradle of wine.
865
00:54:18,350 --> 00:54:21,790
Ohio, beginning. Right? Yeah, Ohio, Louisiana, Texas,
866
00:54:21,790 --> 00:54:25,150
Kansas. So he. He had planted 14
867
00:54:26,990 --> 00:54:30,710
indigenous, what would be, quote, unquote, indigenous
868
00:54:30,710 --> 00:54:34,270
wine grapes of America. They're not vitis vinifera, but they're what they
869
00:54:34,270 --> 00:54:38,070
made wine from in America. Yeah, they're hybrid. Right. And
870
00:54:38,070 --> 00:54:41,910
he's already supplanted four varietals. He like, just can't make
871
00:54:41,910 --> 00:54:45,070
anything you can drink out of these four wines. But he has
872
00:54:45,740 --> 00:54:48,860
12 or 10 other varietals that he's growing in Kansas.
873
00:54:49,180 --> 00:54:52,380
Yeah. And representing
874
00:54:52,780 --> 00:54:56,180
a, you know, a section of the wine trade in America that's really been
875
00:54:56,180 --> 00:54:59,980
unexplored. Yeah. And so maybe if you taste the wines,
876
00:55:00,220 --> 00:55:04,020
I'm not going to comment on their relative quality because one
877
00:55:04,020 --> 00:55:07,420
thing I did tell my subman, you have a lot of legwork to do because
878
00:55:08,380 --> 00:55:11,900
grapes that are unknown and what they're going to do and soil that's unknown and
879
00:55:11,900 --> 00:55:15,260
what it's going to do and, and. But he's built a winery, he's got an
880
00:55:15,260 --> 00:55:19,060
experience and it's called Terravox. Anyway, Poor Across America.
881
00:55:19,060 --> 00:55:21,900
Is there a website for Poor across america? Yes, it's
882
00:55:22,140 --> 00:55:25,260
www.pooracrossamerica.com al together
883
00:55:26,380 --> 00:55:30,220
and the. Listeners check it out. And if you need
884
00:55:30,220 --> 00:55:34,060
any consultation when it comes to direct to
885
00:55:34,060 --> 00:55:37,860
consumer wine sales. We did it for a long time, so I ended
886
00:55:37,860 --> 00:55:41,640
up here 35 years. Such a pleasure having on
887
00:55:41,640 --> 00:55:43,960
the show and it's so glad we could catch up. It took a little while
888
00:55:43,960 --> 00:55:47,520
to get us organized, but very interesting. I like to circle back
889
00:55:48,160 --> 00:55:51,920
in a few months when Poor Across America's got legs
890
00:55:51,920 --> 00:55:55,560
and you can tell us what's been going on. Yeah. My first delivery
891
00:55:55,560 --> 00:55:59,080
is going out in November. It's only here in
892
00:55:59,080 --> 00:56:02,760
Houston because I'm still small and growing, and the first
893
00:56:02,760 --> 00:56:06,600
region is Finger Lakes, so every quarter will
894
00:56:06,600 --> 00:56:10,290
be a different state. So I can tell you my first job.
895
00:56:10,690 --> 00:56:14,010
Well, I worked for my dad's wine shop in the 70s as a teenager. The
896
00:56:14,010 --> 00:56:17,130
first. The day I got my license and I turned 16. I guess this was
897
00:56:17,130 --> 00:56:20,930
illegal. Actually, I delivered in my dad's van
898
00:56:21,170 --> 00:56:24,050
the. The shipments of the Wine of the Month, the original Wine of the Month
899
00:56:24,050 --> 00:56:27,810
club. Now, by then, it was already a couple years old, but my very
900
00:56:27,810 --> 00:56:31,610
first job with a license was to deliver the
901
00:56:31,610 --> 00:56:35,330
club selection. So you've got a lot of room ahead of you to grow this.
902
00:56:35,330 --> 00:56:39,010
And congratulations on getting us started
903
00:56:39,010 --> 00:56:41,810
because it's a lot of work. Thank you. It's a lot of work, but it's
904
00:56:41,810 --> 00:56:45,650
very exciting talking to winemakers. And I collect so
905
00:56:45,650 --> 00:56:49,330
many beautiful stories. For example, one of the wine that I wanted to bring.
906
00:56:49,330 --> 00:56:53,130
And I just have 24 subscribers for now. Right. It's just two cases.
907
00:56:54,010 --> 00:56:57,130
One of the winemakers told me he doesn't have them.
908
00:56:57,770 --> 00:57:01,370
I cannot get it. He produced such a small
909
00:57:02,480 --> 00:57:05,440
amount of wine that I. I
910
00:57:05,760 --> 00:57:09,560
traveled to New York to Finger Lakes in June. I
911
00:57:09,560 --> 00:57:12,320
wanted to buy them in September. He didn't have them anymore.
912
00:57:12,960 --> 00:57:16,360
Wow. It's beautiful. I love this because it's history
913
00:57:16,360 --> 00:57:19,720
repeating itself. My father went to Napa Valley in
914
00:57:19,720 --> 00:57:23,520
1973 and was climbing over pallets of wine with Warren
915
00:57:23,520 --> 00:57:27,320
Winiarski at Stag's Leap. And my dad says, I'll
916
00:57:27,320 --> 00:57:31,080
take this wine. He goes, I don't have enough. Yeah. Now, we were small then,
917
00:57:31,080 --> 00:57:34,680
too, but that's 50 years
918
00:57:34,680 --> 00:57:38,360
ago. It's the same conversation. That's really cool. That's really
919
00:57:38,360 --> 00:57:42,160
cool. Yes. I. I was. I was really. I was like, okay, let me get
920
00:57:42,160 --> 00:57:45,600
some allocation for next year. I'll drink it by myself and get. Used to that,
921
00:57:45,600 --> 00:57:49,280
by the way. So, just so you know, not only we have
922
00:57:49,280 --> 00:57:52,280
that, you'll have the wine arrive, and it wasn't what you ordered or that it
923
00:57:52,280 --> 00:57:55,730
went through some. I had a whole container. I had a whole truck.
924
00:57:55,890 --> 00:57:59,530
17 pallets of wine bake on a
925
00:57:59,530 --> 00:58:03,290
truck just from Paso Robles to Southern. California to that
926
00:58:03,290 --> 00:58:06,770
point. The other thing is my. My subscribers are asking, why
927
00:58:06,770 --> 00:58:10,330
November? Why can't you deliver now in October? I cannot
928
00:58:10,330 --> 00:58:13,930
bring them to Texas. Nobody shipped them to me right now because it's
929
00:58:13,930 --> 00:58:17,690
hot. So. Have you ever heard about FedEx
930
00:58:17,690 --> 00:58:21,540
saying, no I'm not shipping. It's hot. They don't care. They don't care. But
931
00:58:21,540 --> 00:58:24,540
there are, there is a movement. Not a movement, but there's a.
932
00:58:25,900 --> 00:58:29,580
Shipping companies that now have algorithms
933
00:58:29,980 --> 00:58:32,940
that will, that will balance shipments across
934
00:58:33,820 --> 00:58:37,220
the States that have, don't have heat and then have heat, and then they'll release
935
00:58:37,220 --> 00:58:40,900
shipments that were the. It's part of, it's an integral part
936
00:58:40,900 --> 00:58:44,660
of software these days for shipping wine. I never, I never
937
00:58:44,660 --> 00:58:48,260
had a problem. I, I am, I appreciate that, actually. I
938
00:58:48,260 --> 00:58:52,110
appreciate my winemaker to tell me like you will have to wait when it's
939
00:58:52,110 --> 00:58:55,790
safe to ship my wines. I appreciate that. We, the, the thing
940
00:58:55,790 --> 00:58:59,150
we had and we were shipping, look, we were shipping 60,000 bottles a month
941
00:58:59,710 --> 00:59:02,990
was I would ship them if they froze
942
00:59:03,790 --> 00:59:07,390
because FedEx and UPS do not have temperature controlled warehouses.
943
00:59:07,950 --> 00:59:11,550
So they, the cork will pop on a very, very cold day
944
00:59:11,710 --> 00:59:15,550
and the wine will seep on a very, very warm day. But we have
945
00:59:15,550 --> 00:59:19,090
such little because it happens so fast. It just passes through those
946
00:59:19,090 --> 00:59:22,810
states. But I, I think it's prudent. I think it's prudent to do
947
00:59:22,810 --> 00:59:26,570
that because it's not worth. Again, we
948
00:59:26,570 --> 00:59:30,170
talked about earlier that one taste that somebody goes, oh, this, this is
949
00:59:30,170 --> 00:59:34,010
terrible. And the reason it was terrible because it was baked or been frozen and
950
00:59:34,010 --> 00:59:37,770
didn't, didn't survive. So I think you're doing the right thing. No,
951
00:59:37,770 --> 00:59:41,410
it's, it's a great journey, as you said and I'm looking forward to learn more
952
00:59:41,410 --> 00:59:43,900
from you anytime. Cheers.
953
00:59:45,660 --> 00:59:49,340
Thank you for the time today and cheers on your career
954
00:59:49,820 --> 00:59:53,500
and we'll talk soon. Thank you so much. Thank you for inviting
955
00:59:53,500 --> 00:59:53,820
me.